Sunday, October 16, 2011

Barcelona - Comerc, 24

Barcelona is very much the cradle of newer cuisine.  Ferran Adria has left his mark in many places, and Carles Abellan, the owner of Comerc, 24 has worked for Adria at El Bulli and has also managed his other ventures.  Needless to say, there is an Adria mark on the food at Comerc, 24.  The food is served very much tapas style, all in reasonably small portions, but there are enough courses in the tasting menu so you don't leave hungry.

Choice of breads and oils
They are quick to impress as soon you are all settled, ordered (ie. left it to the chef), and served the apertifs.  A wooden case with 4 Spanish olive oils and 3 freshly baked loaves delivered to the counter seat where we were.  This is probably the only place on our whole trip where we had any semblance of a warm loaf.  The 4 oils were distinctly different and interestingly so.  Pity I didn't take better notes.

Dinner was 10 courses (excluding desserts).  There were many hits and while all were executed well, some were a little more blah.  Here's a glimpse into the Festival Menu.

Cauliflower with smoked tea and nori
Cauliflower with rice vinegar and ginger
Monkfish with black sesame and black garlic
The fish section was a decent enough starter, alongside the cauliflower cold soup with smoked tea and nori.  No wows.  But the vinegared cauliflower was too much reminiscent of the type of pickled cauliflower you get from the tableside little pot at your local wanton noodle shop.  So it did nothing for me except remind me of home.

Filo, Parma, Basil and Lemon
 A nice savory take on the local Catalan biscuit version.

Pizza 24
This was a wowzer primarily because everything was so fresh.  Tomatoes, figs, Burrata and Basil are definitely best friends.

Sardines with Orange and fresh Wasabi
Same wow factor with fresh sardines, given a tang by the citrusy orange.  The wasabi was mild enough not to intrude and the crushed dry-fried pine nuts were just clever.

Tuna tartar
Another wow.  We've all had chopped tuna (a chutoro cut no less) topped with salmon roe.  But to seal them with an egg yolk sauce was just plain touch of heaven.  Really didn't want this one to end.

Consomme with Parmesan, Truffle and Egg
This one was great for the novelty factor.  White for Parmesan, Yellow for Egg and of course, Black for Truffle.  Tasted good too - the flavors coming through more than it looked.

Cod with Romesco
The zucchini flower is always welcome.  Good overall but the cod was an ok for me.

Duck rice with Foie
Another one of his specialties, we thought it was too small since it was really good.  But we understood why since the ball of foie cream did get rich and heavy.  Meant to be eaten all together, this was the epitome of duck coming through.  Again the crunch was clever to lift away some of the heaviness and the chewing allowed you to savor the goodness for that much longer.



To cleanse our senses, we weren't told to go outside to get some fresh air.  Instead we were served a couple of sprigs of Rosemary in a bowl of hot water and just told to breathe.  Ah.....

Whiting with Mediterranean Vinaigrette
Good but not great.  It felt that the whiting might have been over-vinegared very slightly, but the crisp fish skin was a nice touch.

Sirloin with Turnips
Very decent cut of beef but the turnips were clever and light, especially since we were nearing the end and getting full (though not uncomfortable).  It was also reminiscent of the soft radish from a braised beef brisket consomme in Hong Kong.

Dessert was 5 courses.  Probably the most we had at any place.

Lemon Ice Tea
 Light start to switch into dessert mode.  Not a real fan of pineapple though.

Yogurt/Cherry
Loved the lightness of this one.  Great palate cleanser and felt like breakfast all over again.

Recuit Napolita with Strawberries
This was my least favorite since the cheese chosen was a little too blue for me.  A tad too strong and overpowered everything else in the little pot.

Apple/Saffron
 Nice build up with chocolate bits, to the grand finale.

Conguitos C, 24
This was my favorite.  It really was reminiscent of a chilled Peanut M&M, as our server warned.  And boy was it the grand finale of desserts.  Excellent.


Petit fours
The green tea white chocolate deserves special mention!

Overall, an excellent experience which although executed in the heart of Catalan, were nothing short of an infusion of international cultures, especially Japanese.  Thoroughly enjoyable.  Special thanks to @g4gary for the recommendation!

Carrer Comerc, 24
Barcelona 08003
Tel: +34- 933192102

Saturday, October 8, 2011

Barcelona - Tapas Territory

When it comes to food portions, the Spanish have gotten it right.  Nobody wants to eat a whole lot of the same thing anymore.  With obesity becoming a problem in most of the developed world, everyone should just learn to eat in moderation.  Have Tapas – where you can get small doses of variety.  Yes, you can wash it down with a beer or Sangria.  In moderation, of course. 

Legend has it that when wine was offered to a Spanish King in medieval times, a piece of bread or cured meat was laid on top of the cup to protect its contents.  Henceforth, the variety of tapas (which in Spanish is taken from the word “Tapa” which refers to a lid or cover) grew and became as important as the alcohol itself.  Presumably so people don’t  keel over from too much alcohol on an empty stomach before dinner starts, and in Spanish terms, that is no earlier than 9pm.

Here’s some of the more memorable Tapas we ate in Barcelona.  Needless to say, they were all delish. 

Tapas 24’s McFoie Burger
Tapas, 24 is the brainchild of Carles Abellan, probably more well-known for his formal dining restaurant Comerc 24.  Like many other protégés, he too hailed from doing time under Ferran Adria at his famous but now defunct El Bulli. 

Lolita Taperia’s eggplant tempura with sweet molasses
Lolita Taperia was co-founded by Joan Martinez and Albert Adria, yes Ferran’s brother, initially known as Inopia.  Albert has since left the venture and Joan renamed it to a saucier Lolita with the signature red lipstick mark on all its paraphernalia. 

Cal Pep’s Potato omelet with mayo

 Cal Pep's deep fried peppers
Cal Pep is helmed by Pep Manubens, who oversees a busy live kitchen show at opening times.  The sights, smells and sounds are a delight as diners feast on the freshest of the day.  Food is kept simple and in its truest form so there is little to no dress up, pretty plates or foam!  And yes, I hear he is a good friend of Ferran too.

Maitea’s marinated sardine
For something more rustic, we tried Maitea and although coming away a little shaken from witnessing a petty theft right on the premises on our first night, it was vibrant and friendly.  Just don't sit too hear the door and don't leave your bag on the floor.  Tapas here were more traditional too with almost everything served on a slice of baguette.

Note: Many places don’t take reservations if your party is less than 4, you can either head there early, or have a beer, soak in the atmosphere, and wait.  Or perhaps name drop?  I hear Ferran is a good one..

Tapas, 24
Carrer de la diputacio, 269
Tel: +34-934880977

Lolita Taperia
Tamarit 104 · local 2-4
Tel: +34-934245231

Cal Pep
Placa de les Olles, 8
Tel: +34-933107961

Maitea
Carrer de Casanova, 157
+34-934395107

Monday, October 3, 2011

Barcelona


Casa Batllo

Impressions after 2 days?  Yes, this place is crazy about Gaudi.  


Even their geckos are Gaudi inspired.  While I must admit the guy was very clever about using natural light and introducing ergonomics into his work, I’m not a fan of the wavy lines he takes from the inspiration of the sea in creating his Casa Batllo.  It’s a great work, and very progressive for his time, but it’s just not my thing.  I mean come on, even the city’s drain covers have wavy lines? 


What I do like about the architecture in this city, is that everything is very neat on the outside, yet different.  The style variety of each building front comes together in the uniformity of the balconies each unit has.  Really does justice to the plenty of cloudless blue sky days this city enjoys.  Picturesque indeed. 

The picture is somewhat marred by the amount of petty crime I heard all about from each person who has ever visited the city.  We even witnessed at dinner one evening, when a poor man got his bag nicked in what was all of 5 seconds literally from under his feet.  The slick operator distracted everyone by being on the phone, walked into the bar, swiped the bag and was on his way out in that short space of time.  Spain has done a lot to sell itself as tourist friendly, but it really needs to do more to allow visitors to have fun with peace of mind.  Since that episode, I’ve spared no effort in clutching onto my belongings.  More stressful than work, really.

That’s really one of the reasons I don’t particularly enjoy La Rambla.  I don’t get the deal on the main drag.  In fact, it’s so crowded and unsettling that it’s really a drag walking there, with the many Paella and Tapas touts.  I mean really?  It does get better within the rabbit warren of streets in the old quarter off La Rambla with its trendy stores, and the walk down to the pier is pleasant enough.


The La Boqueria market though can be a highlight.  A busy cacophony of stalls selling local produce from fruit to fruits of the sea, spices and of course, little Tapas bars offering Tapas and beer for the weary.  The only bar which was still opened at 5pm when we got there was quite underwhelming but we were a little too hungry to care.


There are however, very decent restaurants around the area and one worthy of mention which many do the food Mecca through is Cal Pep.  You can’t make reservations if your party is less than 4, and so we join the ranks of many who queue before opening to score a seat.  If you miss the first round of seatings, you get a beer and wait behind the lucky ones who make the first seating.  The tremendous amount of action which occurs under the watchful eye of Pep Manubens is organized chaos.  And the system seems to work.  Once you get a seat at the bar, you get the freshest offerings of the day. 


The walk around Gothic quarter post lunch is an extremely pleasant one, working off all of that excellent food, looking at butcherias, trendy shoe stores and just soaking in the old historical feel of the area.


For a breather from the city, a day trip to Montserrat to visit the Benedictine monastery set in the hills is quite an experience.  The cathedral is a work of art and the surrounding peaks are excellent photo opportunities as well.  If you like choir boy singing, be sure to check they are there.  We lucked out since they are absent this whole week.

Stay tuned for more about the food!

Sunday, September 18, 2011

Singapore - DB Bistro Moderne

Ladies who lunch are fab.  It's been so busy that I've forgotten how to enjoy a leisurely lunch.  And so on the eve of a holiday, it doesn't get better.  

Daniel Boulud, one of the celebrity chefs who've set up shop in Singapore, has his bistro in the newish Sands integrated resort down in Marina Bay.  It's a comfortable place to dine in, with warm lighting, dark wood interiors, reminiscent of a old-style Parisian bistro but with modern fittings.

I ordered a home-made lemonade, which was overly sweet.  And cloyingly so.  I don't know why I didn't send it back since it was almost like drinking undiluted cordial.  Must have been the holiday mood..

Bread Basket
No complaints with the bread basket, which eased the hunger pangs of a late lunch.  Soft, with a nice chewy texture.  If only they used better butter..

Tarte Fine Provencal
I wasn't quite sure about this one.  My favorite bit was the smoked Mozarella melted over the top.  The chewiness of the cheese allowed the savory smokiness to linger and bring what was otherwise lacking in flavor to the tart.  The chopped up tomato and eggplant under the cheese was ratatouille like and while you could tell the 2 ingredients, didn't taste of much more.  Maybe it's just me, but the combination of the 2 just wasn't enough.  The squirt tail of Sauce Vierge on the side didn't add anything either.  Pleasant enough but very person-next-door.  Wouldn't order it again.

The Frenchie Burger
The burger on the other hand was total Yums.  A good quality beef patty topped with a confit pork belly (like bacon but thicker and better)!  The other condiments of caramelised onions, Morbier cheese (a French Mozarella) and cornichons added to the experience but did not distract.  It was really about the 2 meats.  I was a little apprehensive about the black pepper bun at first but happy it did not add too much spice.  And of course the fries were nothing short of good.  Even towards the end of the meal, they retained their crispiness and were extremely full flavored.  Probably deep fried in fat, but that's how you get that quality, so really can't argue with that.

Gourmet burgers are the way to go here so next time I want my fix, I know where to go.  Will I be a lady who lunches again soon enough?

The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands
2 Bayfront Avenue
Tel: +65-66888525

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Singapore - Osteria Italia

We chose to eat early and not have to struggle with reservations on a Friday night.  Especially since we had been turned away once.  The expectation hanging over the place was inevitable.  We sat down to efficient and professional service from who we guessed is probably the lady owner.  If not, they probably have some great incentive scheme going for their employees.  Iced water was poured promptly and drinks orders taken while she left us alone for a little while to pore the menu.  

A typical menu of a casual Italian eatery, offering up appetizers, pastas, pizzas and a small selection of meats/seafood.

Amuse Bouche
Our amuse bouche of a tomato crostini drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and topped with a solitary Parmesan shaving was good.  The tomatoes were sweet and the Parmesan a decent quality.

Caprese alla Bufala
Buffalo Mozzarella with vine ripe tomatoes
The Caprese was actually very good.  Fresh tomatoes and Arugula (with the right amount of spiciness) matched with a creamy Bufala and it all came together with the aged Balsamic, which provided a sticky sweet finish.

Cartoccio di Mare
Seafood wrapped in tin foil
I was a little puzzled by this one.  The spaghetti was perfectly cooked, with just the right touch of bite.  However, the seafood was a big letdown.  It just wasn't the freshest and as a result, there was no sea taste at all in the tomato-based sauce.  I came away with the feeling that the seafood was separately cooked from the pasta and sauce inside the foil, which misses the point of a Cartoccio.  It probably wasn't the case, but it tasted like so.  Such a shame.

Wagyu Beef Cheek braised in a red wine sauce
The beef cheek was a little better and infused with the goodness of the red wine it was braised in.  End result: a melt-in-the-mouth piece of meat.  However, for non-beef lovers, don't order this since it is rather gamey since there wasn't enough done to cover that off.  My other complaint was that the chef was a little heavy handed with the salt and you couldn't take as much sauce as you want without feeling a little dehydrated afterwards.

I didn't have dessert since I was distracted by the durian mooncakes available 2 shops away.  Overall, it's a comfy laid back joint, and I might go back.  If I do, I would try the other items on the menu since what we ordered didn't really blow us away.  Bruno's is still my choice Italian joint in the East but Osteria has some potential.  The chefs are really quite good, as long as the produce they have to work with improves.


201 Telok Kurau Road
#01-06 Kurau Court
  1. Tel: +65 6346 3970    


Sunday, September 4, 2011

Hong Kong - 聯合興食館 Luen Hop Hing

Tennis buddies touted it as the Chiu Chow beer place.  Well, as it turns out, it was true.  Down and dirty in Lok Fu, the neighbouring enclave to Chiu Chow territory of Kowloon City, we ended up at a bustling (read 100 decibel noisy) place and this was past 10pm on a Saturday night.  Early for some I suppose but whatever it was, everyone who was seated was guzzling European lagers, draughts and stouts, and chomping down traditional Chiu Chow delicacies.


I ordered myself an Erdinger, as did the rest of the 12 of us.  So they loaded 20 bottles into a blue plastic pail filled with ice and plonked it table-side, complete with bottle opener.  Yes, help yourself to more...

We started of course with Chiu Chow essentials:

Coagulated Pigs' Blood with Chives 韭菜豬紅
This actually tastes better than it sounds or looks.  The texture is akin to a firm curdy tofu with a little bite, really what eating blood is all about.  Tasteless by itself, but immersed in a peppery soy gravy with chives, it's the quintessential starter to a get-down-and-dirty Chiu Chow meal.

Braised Phoenix claws with peanuts 花生鳳爪
Another staple but not my favourite way to eat chicken feet.  The Cantonese do a better job braising it in an abalone sauce.  In contrast, this version was a tad tasteless.

Steamed Grey Mullet 蒸烏頭
This was quite good and had enough salt rubbed over it to enhance the taste of the fish.  In any case, it is served with the Chinese version of Miso ie. a preserved yellow bean sauce, if you like a savory beany finish.

Braised Goose 鹵水鵝
Competently done, quite tender and juicy.

Braised Spring Vegetables with Pork 春菜煲
Until D introduced this to me, I never realised this was a Chiu Chow dish.  My Cantonese side generally doesn't like my vegetables cooked to death so I treat this more like a meat dish.  It's actually very tasty from braising with the garlic and pork.  Of course, I haven't figured out what "spring vegetables" are but am guessing it's the mustard green family just by looks alone.

The King of Stir Fries 小炒皇
This is a classic dish with no classic ingredients.  My theory is that it is really whatever in the good old days of the larder which had to be used up and so, clever housewives just threw everything in the wok and over a high heat, stir fried everything to a fragrant and glossy finish.  But whatever made it into the wok typically goes great with a piping bowl of Chiu Chow porridge.  This one had chives, with crispy silver fish and cashews.

Steamed Eel in Black Bean Sauce 豉汁蒸鱔
Unlike the Japanese variety, this eel when cooked is a crunchier texture and addictive with the very tasty black bean sauce.  Only snag is that this creature has a lot of tiny bones that you have to be careful of.

Deep fried Stuffed Pigs' Intestines 釀豬大腸
This one was a big let down.  I'm a huge fan of deep fried pigs' intestines especially those you see at street stalls since they are double deep fried (and yes, doubly unhealthy).  This one was a little chewy and not crispy enough but the use of a shrimp colloid stuffing was inventive although not enough to make it a winner.

For the benefit of the men, we ordered some meat even if these were by no means very Chiu Chow.

Grilled Cumin Pork Ribs 孜然排骨
I like Cumin grilled meats.  Reminds me of the new frontier.  This was a good attempt, but they overdid the bicarbonate on the meat.  A shame since all that was left was the taste of Cumin and little else.

Sweet and Sour Pork 咕撈肉
This was not the usual rendition since they gave it a Chiu Chow twist by using a sauce derived from salted sour plums.  Interesting but nothing to scream about.

Preserved Mustard Greens with Grass Carp Claypot Rice 梅菜鯇魚煲仔飯 
To finish, a little bit of carbs from a claypot rice.  A popular dish in winter but we figured the air-conditioning was strong enough.  Often times, fellow diners get too impatient and open up the pot too quickly.  This time, I watched it like a hawk and hit anyone with my chopsticks if anyone's fingers went near.  And we were all rewarded with ample rice crispies we scraped from the sides of the pot.  Perfect texture against the sweet vegetables, and smooth flesh of the fish.  Great way to finish.

The food ain't the best but there is enough variety so just stick with the staples.  The choice of beers is another novelty.  Overall, I would still say it's yet another successful down and dirty post tennis dinner.  Ace.

Shop 4, Lok Fu Shopping Centre
198 Junction Road
Lok Fu
Tel: +852-2337 2038

Sunday, August 21, 2011

Hong Kong - Sevva

In space scarce Hong Kong, Sevva would be ideal luxe home everybody dreams (not works since you would never get there on hard work alone) of having.  Huge terrace to chill and have drinks at (it's not a barbeque area although that might work..), a lounge to escape from the elements on the terrace, and generous dining areas well decked with fine tableware.  If the folks running the place ventured into full blown hospitality, I would be most curious to see what their rooms would look like.

Apart from the drinks, which I'm told are pretty good, Sevva is probably next best known for desserts created by Mrs B.  Creations at Sevva differ slightly from her cakery in a nearby location but it's all good.  The 2 I've tried on the 2 occasions I've been there are nothing short of pure bliss.  You know that the highest quality cream, flour and eggs went into producing them and you have no qualms licking every bit off the plate.  Best sweets I've had in a long time especially this part of the world.  And they are  some of the most photogenic in the world (not cut up as below but whole - there was a no photo policy at the cake counter though..)

Original Crunch Cake
Extremely light vanilla chiffon bound together by freshest cream and topped off with the childhood fave of honeycomb crunch..  remember Violet Crumble?  Yup, this is the adult refined version but just as addictive.

Chocolate Fudge Cake with Orange Marmalade
I love chocolate fudge but almost never finish one serving on cake since it gets cloying and heavy after a while.  Well, no problems with this one, and this is after a full dinner.  Speaks volumes (pun intended).  It's rich but not heavy and the real marmalade (it's not orange jam - cringe) made from simmering orange rind in sugar was a delightful complement and made every mouthful delectably easy on the palate.

Almost no one I know talks about the food at Sevva.  So one assumes it's just not that good.  But surprisingly, it isn't bad at all.  The food menu at Sevva is as varied as varied can be, and really looks like something you pull out of a good class hotel cafe.  With no particular cuisine theme, it huddles together what its kitchen is capable of pulling off pretty successfully.  From English to Chinese to Indian and hints of modern European, it's really quite an ideal place to entertain clients especially those you don't know too well.

On my first visit, I tried the Dosas - one with lamb and one with chicken.  Both exemplary in taste.  Don't expect traditional Indian but think of it as modern ingredients delivered in a thin crepe of Indian influence.

Lobster Crepe
At dinner this time, the appetiser of the lobster crepe was excellent.  A light but flavourful butter based sauce laced with alcohol from the Champagne or was it Cognac..  whatever it was, it was drizzled over a thin crepe and lobster which was fresh and just barely cooked to be succulent and juicy.

Breakfast Salad
Sevva has a page-long offering of warm salads.  And at least from the 2 I've tried, they taste as good as they sound.  The deep fried tofu salad is reminiscent of the classic Cantonese appetiser but tossed among salad leaves and quail eggs, it made for a very tasty meal in itself and you could almost fool yourself into thinking deep fried food can be healthy too..

The breakfast salad is no different.  With all the goodies we love from breakfast including 2 well deep fried pieces of streaky bacon, sausages, a coddled egg with a liquid centre, tossed among leafy greens and tomatoes, what you get is a well balanced meal of saturated fat and fibre.  Good!

Beef Pot Pie
The main of the beef pot pie, which was served with a flaky pastry cap, was pretty good but seemed blah against the rest of the meal.  Competent though and the use of ox tongue in some of the pieces was a nice touch too.  Taste wise competent but not mind blowingly so.  Given the extensive menu, it wouldn't be what I would order next time.

Overall, an excellent venue to enjoy whatever tickles your fancy in schmancy surrounds overlooking what makes the whole financial district of Hong Kong tick.

25/F Prince's Building
10 Chater Road
Central
Tel: +852-2537 1388