Bangkok - Issaya Siamese Club

The Garden

With the rapid urbanization of cities, especially in populous Asia, it is a sweet rarity to be able to enjoy dining in places like the Issaya Siamese Club.  Set in a 1920s villa, stepping in through the gates and  onto the walkway leading up to the beautiful black-and-white structure transports you back in time where there was little else to worry about except the one telex you got earlier in the afternoon instead of the 200 emails in your inbox..  and the things to be done about that one telex had to wait till the post office opened for business the next day, instead of having to get on 2 conference calls and do recap emails later the same night after dinner.

Times have changed drastically but at Issaya, you can almost feel the time machine had been set for 1925 and is going to stay there on that chillaxing pace, till you finish an enjoyable dinner with good mates.

The table is set

Decor is an all important part of making the time machine experience real and at Issaya, the ground floor dining area is a welcoming room of bold colors that miraculously come together .  The lush garden on the outside is a lovely setting to look at through the big square windows.

The bar

Smiling faces at the bar serve to open up your imagination as you cruise the menu for the concoctions these wizards can whip up for you.

Club grown produce

As you step outback, varieties of plants are grown and harvested onto Ian Kittichai's creations.

Private dining

The upper level of the villa can be reserved for private parties.  A beautiful setting sure to impress guests.

TV area

When not dining, you can even "watch TV" in the living area, although no one stopped to test if the TV still works in 2013.

Tangerine ice tea

After the grand tour, we sat down and had drinks while we pored over a pretty long and comprehensive menu.  Nothing like a long ice-cold drink to beat the heat and humidity of the city.  Instead of pondering over what to order, the 4 of us ultimately decided on splitting the 2 tasting menus since each menu required a minimum of 2 persons to execute.

Here are some highlights:

Amuse Bouche

Banana blossom and heart of palm salad, crispy shallots and roasted peanuts in a chili jam dressing

This is the much talked about salad by Ian K although I would have preferred a more delicate dressing.  I love banana blossoms but feared that they were overpowered by everything else, which thankfully happened to be decent.  I was almost tempted to ask for a second helping of banana blossoms just to balance the dish out.

Grilled imported tender beef, fresh herbs, organic vegetables in a charred bird's eye chili vinaigrette

This was extremely well executed, with enough heat to stimulate but not to overwhelm.  And the beef although quite a big piece for a mouthful, was so tender, that no effort was required to break it down, so you can still keep it elegant while savoring all of the components in one mouthful.  Good news, we each get 2 mouthfuls each.

Spiced rubbed pork baby back ribs glazed with Issaya house-blended chili paste

This didn't look like much when it was served despite the cute Japanese inspired stone stove it came on.    As it heated up at the table, the aroma started to open up the senses, and biting into it, it was not reminiscent of anything Thai but was could be any piece of world class pork rib from any cuisine and of course, melt-in-your-mouth tender.

House made shellfish sausage with Hua Hin style seafood broth

Since we shared, I didn't get any shellfish sausage, but the broth was unbelievably tasty for the thinness of the consistency.  Sea sweet but without the usual heat of a Tom Yum Goong, this was addictive and pretty in the use of paper as a serving device.  My only complaint was that it couldn't contain more given its limited size..

Tamarind glazed crispy duck leg, pan-seared foie gras, sauteed red okra leaves and crushed cashew nuts

No doubt French-inspired and techniques unmistakably so, but it still fit right into the menu without confusing.  Again well executed and despite the heaviness of the ingredients, did not wear us down at all.

Grain fed Australian veal cheek simmered in house-blended spices, hand-pressed coconut milk, and kaffir lime leaves

This and the next were perfect for the rice fiend since you can go on forever eating rice if you had these 2 dishes.  Again, a tender cut of veal that you can break down with your tongue and keeps the focus on the slightly spicy sauce made that much richer with drizzles of coconut milk.

Boneless lamb shank simmered in Mussamun curry served with pickled cucumber

A little anomaly since the boneless lamb came bone-in.  They might have meant it was fall-off-the-bone which was nothing but accurate.  I actually liked the spices in this curry even more than the previous and can prove it based on the spoonfuls of rice I had with this one over the other.

Seasonal vegetables

Likely to have been plucked from the garden too.  I would have liked less sauce with this one since the vegetables were so good since the slightly salty sauce distracted from the natural goodness of the vegetable (almost like flower buds) which I did not recognize.

Asian multigrains, Chiang Mai mushrooms, and garlic sprinkled with a mushroom-scented oil

An Asian play on a truffle risotto, just fluffier and lighter even though it was a little too well-oiled.  Aromatic from the herbs and oil and if not for the amount of food already on the table, I would have had more.

Desserts (bottom up) - Jasmine flower panna cotta, Sticky rice mochi filled with black coconut ice cream, and with fresh coconut, Saree cake (jackfruit semifreddo, Thai miso and mulberry sorbet), macaron

These were all very decent and the panna cotta and Saree cake were standouts for me in terms of creativity and in keeping with the Thai theme, despite the use of western techniques.

An awesome meal to remember for a while and definitely worthy of repeat visits.  Word of caution, the tasting menus are more than generous so make sure you are hungry especially if you go for the more expensive one.  Despite our hearty appetites, we ended up packing up leftovers which we passed to our happy drivers.  Otherwise, the a-la-carte menu has most if not all of the items you might like from the tasting menus.

4 Soi Sri Aksorn
Chua Ploeng Road
Sathorn, Bangkok
Tel: +66-2-672 9040/1

Bangkok - a little bit of this and that

I rarely mix work and pleasure on trips.  Perhaps I am too self aware to know that it is hard for me to switch from work to play mode and vice versa so it's not fair on travel companions nor myself to try to do both.  But Bangkok seemed easy enough, with enough distractions to keep everyone entertained without taking a toll on me.  So we planned a do-nothing-much kinda weekend to well, do nothing, after a tough few work days.

I haven't been back to Bangkok since December 2010 and was eager to check out the dining scene, try a few new places, and otherwise just go with the flow.  Since I was already checked into the Siam Kempinski for work, it was easy just to extend a couple nights rather than switch hotels, especially given its central location, right next to the big malls Siam Paragon, and Siam Center and right by the BTS Siam station.  The scorching heat nearing 40 degrees celsius and awful traffic meant that BTS was our best travel companion.  Plus, the few bad hats of taxi drivers who still try to nail you for a flat fee fare that would exceed what you are expected to pay if they would just use the meter.

Bangkok has really evolved into a real metropolis and with that, the people seemed to have unfortunately taken the city abrasiveness prevalent in a lot of other cities.  What used to be the land of smiles is now more appropriately the land of scowls, perhaps with the advent of stress and other negatives of being in a big bad city.

Fortunately, the food is still very good and very good value.  This was probably the first time that I had not done any repeats and was glad for it since that meant an extra opportunity to try some new options.

Despite the youth of the concierge at the Kempinski, I wasn't too impressed by 2 recommendations to try Baan Khun Mae.  Without having done research, I asked for something near the hotel which was akin to Bann Kanitha.  Baan Khun Mae is not that kind of place.  While it was extremely good value for what they had, it was pretty ordinary grub you can get back in Hong Kong (Kowloon City would give it a good run for its money).  But the other recommendation of Taling Pling, which is right inside the Siam Paragon mall, was a better option.  Slightly modernized (to be expected for a mid-range chain) it was surprisingly decent.

Catfish and Mango Salad

Deep fried chunks of catfish flesh tossed with crunchy julienned green mangoes in a fish sauce and lime dressing is always a winning start.  Thai salads have a sadistic edge to them, with the salty and sour leave you craving for more and the heat stung tongue and lips unable to curb the need to consume even more.  Vicious cycle.

Crab Meat Curry

Loved that we didn't have to peel a crab considering the late hour we were having dinner and how famished we were.  Chunks of crab meat were instant gratification and the use of the green vegetable in the curry were a great way to pick up even more of the sauce.

Caramelised Bananas and Coconut Ice Cream

This doesn't look Thai to the eye but is quintessentially Thai in ingredients with a very fragrant and sweet ball of fresh coconut ice cream adorned with the little stumpy yellow bananas Thailand is famous for.

With list after list making up the foodie universe these days, it was both apt and convenient to have dinner at Sra Bua, which is right inside the Kempinski.  Sra Bua made No. 29 of Asia's 50 Best in 2013 and is set in a beautiful room with high ceilings, solid wood furniture and a water feature in the middle.  Very tranquil in feel even if filled with diners and I loved the fact that there is a lot of space.  A great place to entertain and offer up modern molecular Thai food prepared by non-Thais.  Visually stunning and captures the essence of traditional Thai tastes although I did find the food just a tad salty (something I found on this trip in general but hadn't noticed before).

Mackeral Salad

The use of a smoked mackeral in a traditional Thai salad was interesting but a welcome change.  The smokiness did not overwhelm and did well to complement the fresh herbs and a typically piquant dressing made from the usual fish sauce, lime and chillies.  My dining companions not used to spicy food couldn't down this, however.  Shame.

Lobster with Frozen Red Curry

This was an interesting one in that it was a traditional hot dish served up cold.  Chilled lobster chunks interspersed with grapes and avocado were fresh accompanied by a scoop of red curry ice cream under the foam.  This was served with liquid nitrogen poured into the base plate to create a mystique trail of smoke but beyond that, I couldn't say I was wowed.

Quail in a Tom Kha Gai

This was very well done and easily my favorite savory dish of the night.  Perfectly roasted quail with a crisp exterior and pink center, with the very tasty tom kha gai poured in tableside.  This was awesome with the steamed jasmine rice served alongside and you could just eat this all night.

Banana cake with Salted Ice Cream and Toasted Almonds

One of the best desserts I've had.  Soft and moist banana cake served with fresh and dried coconut and toasted almonds and balanced by a salty ice cream.  The salt ice cream was a little radical since it wasn't contrasted with anything sweet in it, but did enough to complement the rest of the dish.  Don't try it alone though.

Inspired by the experience at Sra Bua, and having had varying experiences of Thai food after that, I was craving something non-Thai but different from the usual Italian which Bangkok is famous for. Little Beast provided just that something homey but with an edge to leave you wanting more.

Asparagus and Watercress salad

Something which sounded so ordinary was made special with a lemon dressing that was tart enough to entice but not to scare and balanced so well with the fresh shavings of Parmesan.  A very welcome way to eat your greens so your momma would be proud.

Raisin and Pistachio Pork Sausage

Home-made and oh-so-good.  None of that over-sodiumed stuff you buy home from the deli but good ratios of lean and fat given a little nutty crunch and sweet plump raisins.  Good even on its own without gherkins.

15-hour Lamb Shoulder

Execution at its best.  Shoulder was tender and even had a acceptable gaminess that even non-lamb eaters can get used to.  The use of a ginger carrot coulis made it reminiscent of an Indian dish from long ago but without being overpowering.  The warm barley provided a carb fullness that wasn't uncomfortable.  The green and mushroom salad didn't do too much else to accentuate but perhaps when you got sick of eating ginger carrots and lamb, it was a nice reprieve although quite unnecessary given the quality of the dish overall.

Fig bread pudding

I can never resist fresh figs and so this was a no-brainer of a choice despite a 25 minute wait, which was well worth it considering the excellent quality of the bread - chewy yet soft with enough custard to keep it moist.  Wondrous.

And so when it came to the last meal of the trip, we were determined to end on a high.  It was back to Thai but not the kind we are used to and can easily get back home.  Issan Thai, which is North East of the capital, is not a cuisine readily available outside of Thailand.  Typically the spice factor is turned up and there is less use of coconut, and even the staple is not long grain Jasmine but sticky rice.  It comes across as a little more Chinese in influence and has influenced cuisines of neighbors such as Laos and Cambodia.

Suppaniga boasts northeastern influence from the owner's grandmother's roots in Trad and Chantaburi provinces with hints of Issan.  Everything is simple and has a homey feel to it.  But the complexities are discernible and you can taste the hours of days gone by spent by gramma in the kitchen.

Watermelon Mojito

Even drinks are simple but good.  Crushed mint in a tall glass of watermelon juice is just the thing for Bangkok in April.  Wished I had this from day 1 of the trip given the ulcers I have amassed from excessive heat in the body system.

Moo Cha Muang

An out-of-this-world spicy curry made with a tender cut of pork and tree leaves (cha muang).  We are told this is rarely available these days and were lucky to have had the opportunity to try this.  I really like the use of leaves in curry and don't know why more people don't use it.  For those cutting down on carbs, leaves are a great way to alleviate the urge to reach for the bowl of rice to mop everything up.  It's not a one-for-one swap but is a pretty good substitute especially since it's good for you.

Ka Lum Tod Nam Pla

I was taken aback when our friendly and knowledgeable server recommended this.  It looked every bit as bland as the picture in the menu and paled in appearance to other vegetable dishes.  But we understood why when he explained the use of a special fish sauce from Gramma's Trad province.  It was fragrant and tasty without being salty.  The big cabbage leaves were a little unwieldy and extremely crunchy since it was barely cooked but were a good platform to showcase the fish sauce given its natural sweetness.  My only complaint is that they should probably have chopped them down to more manageable sizes.  But you know what, leave Ms Manners aside and you'll be ok.

Pu Jah

A tasty blend of crab and pork minced and steamed in its shell.  Fooled by its size, this was actually substantial in the tummy.  Pleasant with the Sriracha but not a wow in my book.

Dessert

This was yam and sweet potato balls in a coconut based soup.  Sounds common enough and akin to a bubur chacha, for those who hail from Singapore/Malaysia, but the twist is the salted egg they drop into the bowl, taking away the sweetness of a conventional dessert and giving it a contrast not dissimilar to how the French have been doing for years themselves with the salted caramel.  This is Thailand's answer.

And from what I ate on this trip, Thailand does have a lot of answers.  Now it just needs to fix the traffic and climate, and make its people learn to smile again.

Taling Pling
G29, 991 Rama 1 Rd
Siam Paragon Shopping Center
Pathum Wan, Pathumwan, 
Bangkok 10330
+66-2-6109878

Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin
1/F, Siam Kempinski, 
991/9 Rama 1 Rd
Bangkok
+66-2-1629000

Little Beast
44/9-10 Thong lo 13
Bangkok 10110
+66-2-1852670

Suppaniga Eating Room
160/11 Soi Sukhumvit 55 (Thonglor), 
Between Thonglor Soi 6 & 8, 
Klongton Nuea, Watthana
Bangkok 10110
+66-2-7147508