Hong Kong - 聯合興食館 Luen Hop Hing

Tennis buddies touted it as the Chiu Chow beer place.  Well, as it turns out, it was true.  Down and dirty in Lok Fu, the neighbouring enclave to Chiu Chow territory of Kowloon City, we ended up at a bustling (read 100 decibel noisy) place and this was past 10pm on a Saturday night.  Early for some I suppose but whatever it was, everyone who was seated was guzzling European lagers, draughts and stouts, and chomping down traditional Chiu Chow delicacies.

I ordered myself an Erdinger, as did the rest of the 12 of us.  So they loaded 20 bottles into a blue plastic pail filled with ice and plonked it table-side, complete with bottle opener.  Yes, help yourself to more...

We started of course with Chiu Chow essentials:

Coagulated Pigs' Blood with Chives 韭菜豬紅

This actually tastes better than it sounds or looks.  The texture is akin to a firm curdy tofu with a little bite, really what eating blood is all about.  Tasteless by itself, but immersed in a peppery soy gravy with chives, it's the quintessential starter to a get-down-and-dirty Chiu Chow meal.

Braised Phoenix claws with peanuts 花生鳳爪

Another staple but not my favourite way to eat chicken feet.  The Cantonese do a better job braising it in an abalone sauce.  In contrast, this version was a tad tasteless.

Steamed Grey Mullet 蒸烏頭

This was quite good and had enough salt rubbed over it to enhance the taste of the fish.  In any case, it is served with the Chinese version of Miso ie. a preserved yellow bean sauce, if you like a savory beany finish.

Braised Goose 鹵水鵝

Competently done, quite tender and juicy.

Braised Spring Vegetables with Pork 春菜煲

Until D introduced this to me, I never realised this was a Chiu Chow dish.  My Cantonese side generally doesn't like my vegetables cooked to death so I treat this more like a meat dish.  It's actually very tasty from braising with the garlic and pork.  Of course, I haven't figured out what "spring vegetables" are but am guessing it's the mustard green family just by looks alone.

The King of Stir Fries 小炒皇

This is a classic dish with no classic ingredients.  My theory is that it is really whatever in the good old days of the larder which had to be used up and so, clever housewives just threw everything in the wok and over a high heat, stir fried everything to a fragrant and glossy finish.  But whatever made it into the wok typically goes great with a piping bowl of Chiu Chow porridge.  This one had chives, with crispy silver fish and cashews.

Steamed Eel in Black Bean Sauce 豉汁蒸鱔

Unlike the Japanese variety, this eel when cooked is a crunchier texture and addictive with the very tasty black bean sauce.  Only snag is that this creature has a lot of tiny bones that you have to be careful of.

Deep fried Stuffed Pigs' Intestines 釀豬大腸

This one was a big let down.  I'm a huge fan of deep fried pigs' intestines especially those you see at street stalls since they are double deep fried (and yes, doubly unhealthy).  This one was a little chewy and not crispy enough but the use of a shrimp colloid stuffing was inventive although not enough to make it a winner.

For the benefit of the men, we ordered some meat even if these were by no means very Chiu Chow.

Grilled Cumin Pork Ribs 孜然排骨

I like Cumin grilled meats.  Reminds me of the new frontier.  This was a good attempt, but they overdid the bicarbonate on the meat.  A shame since all that was left was the taste of Cumin and little else.

Sweet and Sour Pork 咕撈肉

This was not the usual rendition since they gave it a Chiu Chow twist by using a sauce derived from salted sour plums.  Interesting but nothing to scream about.

Preserved Mustard Greens with Grass Carp Claypot Rice 梅菜鯇魚煲仔飯 

To finish, a little bit of carbs from a claypot rice.  A popular dish in winter but we figured the air-conditioning was strong enough.  Often times, fellow diners get too impatient and open up the pot too quickly.  This time, I watched it like a hawk and hit anyone with my chopsticks if anyone's fingers went near.  And we were all rewarded with ample rice crispies we scraped from the sides of the pot.  Perfect texture against the sweet vegetables, and smooth flesh of the fish.  Great way to finish.

The food ain't the best but there is enough variety so just stick with the staples.  The choice of beers is another novelty.  Overall, I would still say it's yet another successful down and dirty post tennis dinner.  Ace.

Shop 4, Lok Fu Shopping Centre
198 Junction Road
Lok Fu
Tel: +852-2337 2038

Hong Kong - Wing Hing Chiu Chow Cuisine 汕頭榮興潮州菜館

Tang Lung Street is one of the few enclaves left in downtown Hong Kong where you can still sit under the stars (not that you can see them) and have down to earth dirty food.  There is an eclectic mix of eateries although quite a few of them serve Chiu Chow cuisine.  There is no prettiness here though.  People sit on the street more likely because the eateries are small and it's still more comfortable (at least in cooler months) to risk the smell of smog and exhaust from the occasional car that goes by, than to squeeze into a tiny space in the eateries themselves.  However, it does make me wonder how they've managed to evade the arm of the Food and Environmental Hygiene Department.  That aside, for some of us who grew up in the good old days, it makes for a nice way to roll back in time to enjoy a but of retro.

I ate on the street 2 Fridays in a row.  At the same eatery no less.  I'll tell you it wasn't because Wing Hing is the best Chiu Chow place around.  It isn't.  But Tang Lung Street has that retro element that appeals to developed city folks that it's a convenient place to showcase a little old Hong Kong without having to get to older parts of Kowloon or even venture out to the New Territories.

Goose and Cuttlefish Slice Combo 鵝片拼墨魚

The braised goose platter was decent.  Not the tenderest of cuts, but what was surprisingly good was the cuttlefish.  Extremely tender and juicy and managing to absorb enough of the braised gravy to make it super tasty.  The braised pig intestines I got on the second visit were also good.  Sinfully good since the fat made it both succulent yet guilty to consume.

鼠殼果

For old times sake, we ordered a glutinous rice cake since I don't remember eating it after my late grandmother passed away some years ago, God bless her soul.  This version was a far cry from Grandma's creations.  The glutinous rice within was way too mashy and there was little to no condiments, such as peanuts and dried shrimp.  Only saving grace was that they pan fried this to give the steamed rice flour skin a crispy edge.  Otherwise, it just made me miss Grandma's cooking even more..

Sharks' Fin Chiu Chow Style 潮式翅

Terribly un-PC, but I do find it hard to resist a good bowl of Chiu Chow style Sharks' Fin.  In taste, this was not as good as Miracle Cuisine, but there was something nostalgic about it that reminded me of old Chinese wedding dinners...

Kale and preserved vegetable stir fried with vermicelli 芥蘭菜葡炒米粉

This didn't look mike much but got quite addictive as I picked out the bits of "Choi Bo" towards the end.  I didn't care too much for the vermicelli which was a little too chewy for my liking (this coming from someone who resists anything that's not al dente but this was bordering on asphyxiation).  A flat rice flour noodle aka "Gwai Diu" would have worked better but still tasty.

I also tried other Chiu Chow staples on my second visit.  The minced pork and baby oyster porridge （肉碎蚝仔粥）wasn't too bad.  A decent tasty broth in which the rice and condiments sat, though a tad heavy on the ginger, which detracted from the other flavours.  The shrimp and cucumber omelette （水瓜烙）was sadly disappointing though.  Way too greasy, and impossible to eat beyond the first pizza wedge.  It was hard to tell whether the grease was from failing to rid the cucumber of excess moisture before frying or whether the chef just used 2 more glugs of oil than he should have...

Overall, even Sun Kwong on the other side of Causeway Bay is better, but Wing Hing scores on the novelty factor option of being able to dine under the stars..  and a friendly and chatty "aunty" server who speaks very very decent English so that even non-native speakers can be comfortable with.

G/F, 20-22 Tang Lung Street
Causeway Bay
Tel: +852-3580 7093

Singapore - Teochew Traditional Seafood Steamboat

It doesn't get cold in Singapore so it fascinates me that people still like their hotpot or steamboat as it is more commonly referred to here.  The perpetual rain does not send temperatures plunging but the slight decline is apparently enough to kick in that steamboat craving.  And so, off we go to this new place in Joo Chiat that some have raved about. 

The offerings are akin to a Hong Kong hot pot - that's why it's called Traditional Teochew I suppose.  The nicely marbled beef was impressive although I would have charged more and loaded up the plate.  8 pieces is probably enough for only one person if you like your beef.  The different types of wantons, squid "cake", meat and fish balls are all made in-house, we were told, and their house special - kway teow made from fish.  Fresh and decent quality.

There is only one type of soup stock and people like it.  It is a stock made from shark bone and is chock a block with lots of vegetable and other goodies.  It is tasty but a tad salty for my liking.  The Hong Kong style stock is generally tasteless and is largely used as something for the food to swim in before it is used for feeding.  Here, the stock can be drunk from minute 1, when it gets to a boil at the table.  Subtle differences but whatever it is, the salt content needs to go down a notch.

Don't overload on the steamboat and leave room for the very crispy pork knuckle.  Nicely deep fried to a crisp with the nice chewy collagen and firm meat in contrast, my only complaint was that the marinade was pretty ordinary so the gamey smell may overpower for some.  Pickles took the place of sauerkraut but could have been better pickled though..

Overall, good comfort food in decent, clean surrounds.  Worth a visit if you like hotpot/steamboat.

176 Joo Chiat Road
Singapore
Tel: +65-63488924

Hong Kong - Chiu Chow in CWB

Sometimes all you want is something simple.  That simple bowl of rice porridge, no not congee as the Cantonese eat, but more akin to gruel.  A cleansing of the palate and warmth to the soul, it is certainly comforting to say the least.

Of course, pair with usual Chiu Chow staples like preserved vegetables with fish (this one had the bonus of generous fish roe too) and stewed chicken feet with peanuts.

The highlights here were the white bait omelette which was perfectly fried with a generous layer of white bait laced with spring onions in between.

The Golden Squid was really deep fried squid which has been coated in batter flavoured with salted egg.  Looks like nothing but tastes like everything.  Very fragrant and addictive especially if you order a cold beer.  Sinful but good.

Of course, I happily ate without looking at the sign nor taking a business card, so I have no idea what it's called.  I haven't been successful getting the address online either, but if you walk into Tang Lung Street from the Canal Road East side, it's the first lit shop on your right.  Can't miss the many tables outside on the driveway, with smokers still enjoying the limited places to dine and still light up.

Hong Kong - Miracle Cuisine 創潮樓

Deep down, half the Chiu Chow in me loves to seek out close-to-the-hometown Chiu Chow fare.  And this fairly new place in TST has the makings of a classic Chiu Chow place.  Thanks to half the Chiu Chow in D - this new discovery of his is quite a find. 

Of course, in trying a new Chiu Chow place, the classics have to be done right, otherwise there is no second time. 

Starters of braised pig trotters were juicy and tasty from the spice-laced soya sauce which was absorbed by the trotters.  This is perfect for those who like their beer or even something stronger to start the meal with.  By the way, Coke works too!

The cold crab was just the right temperature for yet another scorching day.  Cooler than is served at most other Chiu Chow places, but not too cold as to lose the flavour in the chill, the crab was firm to the bite and flick-off-the-shell fresh.  Eaten with accompanying Zhejiang vinegar, a perfect summer quencher!

The winner of the day was the politically incorrect bowl of braised shark's fin.  The thick broth it was swimming in is the result of countless hours of simmering stock that tasted like a whole lot of chicken and Yunnan ham goodness and probably a whole bunch of other decadent delicacies from the dried seafood larder of the restaurant.  Served with a dash of brandy, it needs nothing else, so don't reach for any vinegar or pepper.  Probably one of the best I've had.

The very bouncy prawn balls were literally prawns rolled into a ball - I exaggerate a little but there definitely wasn't much processing involved since you can still see the pink as you bite into one.  The crunch was therefore from the freshness of the prawns used and not because the colloid had been bounced around too much.  I would hazard to guess that it is hand-rolled because of the texture.

The Cantonese in me usually likes my veges quickly blanched to retain crunch and vitamins but the spring vegetable claypot was actually very good.  Sweetened with the pork and radish, this mustard green family member has none of the bitterness which I generally dislike.  And despite the roasted garlic and pork, it wasn't at all oily and really quite refreshing to eat, despite the heat.

The finale of pan fried egg noodles, a quintessential Chiu Chow staple served with Zhejiang vinegar and sugar was a fitting finish.  The chef took the trouble to seal both sides to a crisp - the usual is one - and kept the moisture of the noodles on the inside, making it a contrast in textures and with the contrasting sweet and sour of the condiments, it would be difficult to not like this.

To call this miracle cuisine might be a stretch but it comes pretty darn close. 

1/F, VIP Commercial Building,

120 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui

Kowloon, Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2377 1698

Hong Kong - Sun Kwong Chiu Chow Restaurant

Chiu Chow or Teochew or Chaozhou cuisine originates from the region in the easternmost part of Guangdong province. Being part Chiu Chow on my Dad's side of the family, the cuisine holds as dear to me as Cantonese food is on my mother's side. Cuisines I grew up with and probably would be happy to die eating..

Although from the same province, their styles are different. Chiu Chow cuisine is generally lighter in cooking method and flavour, with much more emphasis on the orginal flavours of the produce being cooked.

As one of my favourite Chiu Chow restaurants in Hong Kong, Sun Kwong on Lockhart Road creates a good sampling of traditional Chiu Chow cuisine.

The priciest thing on the menu is the fresh steamed crab served cool, with dark vinegar laced with a little sesame oil. While pricey, it is definitely worth the moola if you like your crab. The meat has a firm bite and falls off the shell easily from the freshness. Steamed with a mixed bag of herbs, chilled and then served, the herbs enhance but do not detract from the natural flavours of the crab.

The braised goose is a must try of course at any Chiu Chow restaurant and Sun Kwong is no exception. Perfectly braised and retaining its juices, it combines well with the soya sauce in which it had been braising. You can combine the goose slices with innards from the goose or pig, all an exciting combinations of textures and flavours.

Other Chiu Chow representations worth trying include:

Oyster Omelet (served with a piquant fish sauce)

Steamed grey mullet (served with salty yellow bean sauce).


And the rice porridge with baby oysters and minced pork.


Comfort food at its best.. no wonder Sun Kwong gets more crowded as it gets later into the night..