Hong Kong - Gin Sai 吟彩

Gin Sai is part of the trio of restaurants in the new and luxurious Oakhill apartments in Wanchai, that have opened to "critical acclaim", owned by the Lai Sun group, perhaps known first and foremost for the prices of their establishments, but impossible to get last minute reservations.  (Yes, I suppose Hong Kong is still very much thriving.)  So I was pleasantly surprised to have been able to get into Gin Sai on a Friday night.  It wasn't that new when I first visited but it looked to be a "fly-swatting" night, at least on ground level.  But having valet-ed the car, it was a little too late.

Oden

I am not a huge fan of oden, a broth based dish served in wintry Japan comprising a variety of ingredients depending on where you eat it, but fish cakes, tofu and boiled radishes seem to be the order of most days.  Being one of their specialties, I actually enjoyed the very tasty but light broth which I finished.  My choices of radish, a steamed squid and meatball dumpling, alongside a deep fried tofu with chopped vegetables and ground fish were actually good.  Fresh and obviously not processed unlike some places.  Serving it with a dollop of mustard on the side added a little pungency and kick to an otherwise mild dish.

Hokkaido Potato Salad

Having traveled the week and not having eaten less than healthily, I thought a salad would be good.  But I had no difficulty succumbing to the recommended potato salad, which was bound together with a fragrant and addictive eggy dressing.  So much for fiber.  I guess the consolation is that they had lettuce on the side.

Tempura crab claw and sea urchin

This was just appropriately decadent for the lazy.  No peeling of crab necessary and lightly battered and deep fried.  Any uncomfortable heat taken away by the creamy topping of cool fresh sea urchin, the sea sweetness accentuated by a little soy sauce.  Gone too quickly...

Robatayaki ox tongue

This was supposedly French.  Whichever French ox it came from, it was pretty tender with a bite.  Just lightly seasoned and grilled to perfection, good with a little wholegrain mustard, and cold sake if you get some.

Chicken meatball

However, I didn't enjoy this as much since I too like my meatballs only lightly seasoned and with enough crunch from the cartilage they infused it with.  This one was distracting with hints of ginger and garlic.  Not overwhelming but obvious enough for it to be distracting.

Seasonal claypot rice

This was by far my favorite dish of the evening.  And we had to wait a good 45 minutes for this.  Thank goodness for free Wifi.

Claypot rice cooked to perfection with sea urchin, crab meat and egg white, laced with fresh chopped scallions.  And bonus?  More fresh sea urchin.

The result?  A sea-tasty bowl of well formed rice with a little crunch from the slightly charred bits of rice nearest the base of the claypot.  Rice was high quality and well cooked to be separate and distinct - an important factor for me.  Mouthfuls of varied textures and tastes, all different depending on what you pick up with your spoon.  So good I doggy-bagged the leftovers and had it 2 days later.  It was still good.

Dessert

They had an interesting array of Western style desserts rather than the usual Japanese offerings, probably because it is the same pastry kitchen as Wagyu Takumi, the French-Japanese restaurant member of the same group.  We selected swiss rolls topped with different berries.  Use of good ingredients here ensured the result was a lightly sweet end to a decent dinner.

While prices aren't low, the plus is a comfortable and quiet dining experience away from the world of Suzie Wong that is not far away.  A big bonus in an overcrowded Hong Kong these days.

Shop 3-7, G/F The Oakhill, 

32-38 Cross Lane

Wanchai

Tel: +852-25741118

Hong Kong - Sushi Toku 壽司德

More than 2 years after I first discovered this place, I finally made it back for dinner - something I had planned to do so since that declaration in 2011.  Since it had been a while and it was our first time for dinner, I was advised against Omakase and instead we picked items off the Specials menu.  A semi-work dinner meant I was less than able to remember names of fishies but from the selections, it was only slightly off the beaten track and mostly featured things we would have eaten before.

Starting off with a "carpaccio" of a "left-mouthed" fish.  Well, at least it's what the Chinese call them.  Although they had left and right, I was told left was right and so that's what we ended up with.  Sweet with a subtle crunch and almost a default to start with these days, it's excellent in summer with the tart ponzu soy it's served with.

Then a lightly torched pice of Kinmedai and cockles.  Although the species of cockle was supposed to be very seasonal, I wasn't that blown away.  I still like the red, raw and bloody type best..

A crowd favorite - chopped mackeral with scallions and what was a really fragrant and sweeter version of lemongrass.  Excellent with K's choice of Sake.

The cooked courses were very enjoyable despite the lack of choice since several things weren't available anymore.  A notable miss was the tempura of fresh figs which I must go back for.  The grilled eggplant with sweet miso wasn't bad though since it was still firm and not overly mushy.  Great way to eat this vegetable... or is it a fruit?

The sweet river fish or Ayu is an absolute seasonal fave with sweet and soft cottony flesh.  In bed sheet terms this would be no less than 500 threadcount.  Just lightly salted and grilled so you enjoy its natural goodness.  Accompaniments are strictly that and quite unnecessary.

This was the winner of the evening.  Good grade beef from Saga served on a hotplate and left to cook table side.  Capturing photos meant I left it to cook a tad longer than I would have liked but it was still melt-in-your-mouth goodness.  Amazing stuff.

After the beef, this very good fish tempura unfortunately paled in comparison (only in wow factor) and I was too distracted to even remember the name of the fish.  My bad.

To end, an Uni laden piece of sushi and sweet egg roll omelette.  The Uni was from Hokkaido and supremely sweet.  The Tamago was K's request although I had warned him that after my experiences at Sushi TaKe  and Sushi Sase , it would be hard to beat those.  I was unfortunately right.

Notwithstanding, we were pretty pleased with the evening's experience and the place does have enough credibility to compete with Sushi Kenjo and Sushi Hiro in the TST area.  A definite add to the TST list in my book.

Shop B, 2/F, Cameron Plaza
23-25A Cameron Road
Tsim Sha Tsui
Tel: +852- 2301 3555

Hong Kong - Sushi Sase

It is a refreshing change of scene from the usual sushi experience in Hong Kong.  Bright, airy with lots of space per diner at the sushi counter.  Very contemporary in feel unlike others who feel very much in a time warp from the 80s.  It was an all round Zen feel despite the busy corner in Central it is located at.  Perhaps it reminds Sase san of Sushi Zen, where he hailed from.  And of course, they have free wifi.  Never mind a password that read as long as superkallifragilistic espiallidocious.  Seriously.

Walnut Tofu

The amuse bouche of walnut tofu and spinach in a sesame sauce were both good but the tofu was a stand out for the essence of walnut captured in a a smooth yet slightly chewy piece of tofu, capped with a very well roasted nut to rid it of excess oils.  

Having made the choice of the Chef's Omakase set, we sat down to business.  At HK$1,580 this is serious business.  We didn't get Sase san since I booked late, but Chef Wai was very professional and had a good Japanese discipline about him.  Yes, the strong silent type.  That said, he does smile when presenting a new course.  Perhaps he was nervous since he did forget our pickles until we asked.

The raw food was a fresh selection of Flounder, Tuna (Maguro), Sea urchin, House-smoked fish, Octopus (Tako) and Snow crab.  

Sea Urchin

Sweet and creamy.  No condiments necessary.  Just pure unadulterated protein from the sea.

Octopus

This was lightly steamed and finished with a sweet glace.  Tender and needs very little chewing, unlike products from lesser places.  The condiment of Yuzukosho added a spicy tang and gave it a different twist.

Snow crab

Fall off the shell freshness.  And very sweet.  The creamy roe was foie gras of the sea, packed with the salty sea and a nice contrast to the sweetness of the crab.

Deep fried Monk Fish

In the cooked food section, the deep fried monk fish stood out better than the other choice of soy-braised Kinki.  Don't get me wrong, the Kinki was very well executed accompanied by radish and young spinach.  Very light yet tasty.  But the monk fish was an exciting battle of crisp batter and a slightly crunchy fish.  Each buttery mouthful quite addictive, especially with the highlights of lime squishes over the top.  

Mackeral

The sushi course was a presentation of 9 pieces, including ark shell, mackeral, snapper, wild amberjack (buri),  shrimp, salmon roe, tuna belly and sea eel.  The rice was of high quality with the right amount of marinade, and well cooked to show separation of grains yet maintain a stickiness that held together without being overly tight.

Salmon roe

This is always enjoyable when the fresh roes pop in the mouth.  Held loosely together by a seaweed which added crispness, there is many a good thing happening on the palate here.  And you know you're working with the good stuff when the roes are naturally sweet, unlike the ones which have been sitting in brine for a while.

Seared Tuna belly

Slightly smoky balanced the fatty goodness.  Yes, it was good.

Sea Eel

Although filled with tiny bones, all edible if you just overcome the psychological barrier of swallowing fish bones.  This is one of those experiences that are worth it for the cottony sweetness this creature offers.  Enhanced by a sweet soy glace, it is quite something.

Baked egg

Only one of 2 places I know that make this in Hong Kong, you will have a hard time believing this spongy sweet cake is actually an omelet.  Prep time and effort is a little more and that's why this is so good.  This in itself is worth the trip.

Matcha Panna Cotta

Desserts were surprisingly fantastic.  This matcha panna cotta used a traditional matcha powder explaining the deep and dark green color.  Buried underneath is a creamy milk pudding that is rich yet light, or at least it gives you the delusion of so since the bitterness of the matcha is such a contrast to the sweet goodness of the milk.  Made ostentatious by a broken gold leaf covering a sweet black bean sitting atop.

Honey ice cream with cinnamon ice

This was yet another winner.  Creamy honey given a clever bite by a cinammon flavored crushed ice.  Enough said.  

Food wise, there is little complaint about this place despite the hefty price tag.  Service was decent depending on who you get.  Still, service aside, it is one of Hong Kong's finest sushi joints as at the date of this post and if you think about the money you save on a ticket to Japan, this more than pays for itself.  A resounding "yes" to a repeat.  Is it bonus time yet?

49 Hollywood Road

Central

Tel: +852-28150455

Fukuoka - Yakitori-Hachibei Tenjin

One of the things Fukuoka is famous for is Yakitori.  Typically chicken and chicken parts only are on offer but in Fukuoka, many places seem to offer other meats, seafood and vegetables.  But one thing's constant, they are on skewers and grilled over an open fire borne of charcoal.

We couldn't possibly leave without a Yakitori meal so even if it meant waiting till 9.30pm for dinner, we still wanted a meal at Hachibei, especially after @e_ting had also blogged about it.

Sea urchin, salmon roe and crab meat on rice

So we loaded up on some pre-dinner yumminess from the Mitsukoshi food hall (bless the Japanese for getting food halls in every department store!).  But even a reservation at the reasonably late hour meant a 20 minute wait in the cold...

The counter

But that just made the inside - a boisterous buzz of conversations, interactive shouts within the open kitchen and the smoky and warm interiors - that much more welcoming.  Except for the cigarette smoke.  There is no separation of areas so if you are seated next to a smoker, tough luck.

Center of the action

The camaraderie between the young men operating the various stations within the kitchen are quite a sight to watch, and the almost nonchalant way the chef showers his meats on the grill with secret seasonings made from a base of sea salt is cool personified.

Pork belly

Fresh cabbage is free flow, like tea, but I was happy with my black sugar Umeshu, while most have beer to keep them happy.  There is an English menu but not for specials so I had to peer into the chiller that runs 2 sides of the counter and point to our server.

Tsukune (minced chicken)

Given the slightly late hour, a few things we had our eye on were sold out but they did have the Tsukune, which was a nice rendition of minced chicken and cartilage.  Smeared with a little mustard on the side, just excellent.

Belly pork with vegetables

And you can't go wrong with belly pork wrapped around vegetables (choose from chives, pea shoots or broccoli).  All good.

Gingko Nuts

Arabiki sausage

Other items like the gingko nuts and arabiki sausage were also good.

Grilled rice balls

But a surprising show stealer was the grilled rice ball.  Wrapped in a Perilla leaf and carefully (slowly) grilled so as not to burn, this was a perfect slight crisp on the outside but moist and firm rice within.  And so fragrant.

Sesame pudding

A perfectly light and sweet finish of their own house made sesame pudding with black sugar made it a glorious last night in Fukuoka.  Until next time..

〒810-0021 
2-5-28 Imaizumi Chuo-ku Fukuoka
Tel: +81-92-732-5379

Fukuoka - Ganso Nagahama and Moment / Manu Coffee

Cold and wet day in Fukuoka city

On a bad weather day, it is a huge consolation that a city like Fukuoka allows the visitor as much fun indoors as out.

Ganso Nagahama

And so we ventured by taxi to discover the hype around this little local ramen joint in the fish market area of Nagahama.

Waiting to be let into the zone

When we got out of our cab, the queue had stretched the length of exterior of the shop, all locals shivering and trying to stay warm while waiting to be let in.

Vending machine

Having done a little research, we knew to buy a meal ticket before joining the queue and shortly after I snapped this photo, a server came out to stick yet another sold out sign over the “Kaetama” option.  No extra serving of noodles available?  Oh well, back to low carb diet then..

Bustling room of ramen ravishers

There's not a lot of conversation in the room once you get in.  All you hear are the sounds of the servers communicating with the open kitchen and the sucking and slurping sounds of ramen ravishers consumed by the task at hand.

Enjoy it fast & furious

It's not the type of meal to tarry over.  If you're slow, your noodles become less firm and the soup less piping hot.  So once served, just start slurping till there's no more.

Before

This is actually what it looks like before you dig in.  Sesame and ginger are table side so help yourself.  This version of ramen is pretty basic.  The soup stock is not as rich as other places and an equal part of the taste comes from the pork slices which are salted.  We saw the locals pouring shoyu into it, but if you like it a little less salty, I found the stock adequate though I can see how some may find it comparatively bland.  Verdict: it's definitely a taste of old world, basic and nothing fancy, probably reminiscent of something in an old Nagahama household.  But as a visitor to Fukuoka, I enjoyed my bowl at Ichiran a little more.

Taking the haul apart

The nice part of eating in this part of town is getting to see some of the seafood shops in action.  The main market was shut by the time we finished with lunch but this shop was still full of action at 3 in the afternoon.

Peddling the wares

There was still a fair bit of a variety on offer even at that time of day.

Counter at Moment Coffee

More important was our search for java which would complete my second ramen and coffee sojourn.  Given the neighborhood we were in, we weren't optimistic that we would get a satisfying cuppa since I hadn't heard that fishermen and coffee went together.  But as luck would have it, we chanced upon Moment Coffee and didn't hesitate to escape from the wet and cold outside.

House blend

Moment serves a well balanced house blend that hand dripped, was well balanced with a nice finish without being overly acidic.

Latte

 Espresso drinks were also yummy and were well put together, creating a finished product that neither coffee nor milk overpowered each other.

Manu Coffee

We would have made the short journey back to Manu Coffee (which we enjoyed on our first morning) if we didn't chance upon Moment Coffee.

Enter if you can figure out how

With lots of coffee paraphernalia around the store, it had a really nice vibe to the place, so great to chill, especially if you like the Beatles...  for some reason, all the coffee places I went to on this trip played the Beatles, with the exception on Moment which is a lot more contemporary and jazzy.

Espresso drinks done table side

Coffee here is just as good as Moment and it seems to be the more established store with 3 locations across the city.  And the novelty is espresso drinks finished table side.  Nice touch.

Ganso Nagahama
Nagahama 2-5-19 Chuo-ku
Tel: +81-92-781-0723

Moment Coffee
中央区舞鶴 2-3-10-102, Fukuoka-shi
Fukuoka
+81 92-713-4370


Manu Coffee
Border Tower Bld 1F,3-11-2 Watanabe Street, Chuou-ku
Fukuoka 810-0004
+81-92-736-6011