EdEats...

Singapore - Gunther's Modern French Cuisine

2012-01-29T00:21:00.000+08:00

It has withstood the test of time and the financial tsunami, it appears. Still packing in a healthy crowd on a Thursday night (albeit it is Chinese New Year week), there's something to be said about resilience. It fell off my radar screen despite a decent introduction, but only because it's been hard to keep up with Singapore openings, especially since I don't live here anymore.

Since it had been a while, I decided on the Degustation menu, as did the rest of the party.

Since SP brought his own wine, which wasn't bad at all, we just had that all night. *smiles. Forget wine pairing.

Amuse Bouche

A warm mini baguette and shrimp tempura to keep us occupied over wine and convo while the menu was set into motion in the kitchen. Bread and shrimp weren't too amusing so thank goodness for alcohol.

Cold Angel Hair Pasta, Oscietra Caviar

Still Gunther's best and signature dish of all time. Easily the best of the evening. Too bad it was a degustation portion only. So good thing for bread, to help mop the stray caviar which didn't cling to the well chilled and very al dente angel hair. Stock and truffle bits were very complementary also.

Poached egg, carpaccio of celeriac, Spanish ham

Egg was perfect, and broke into a runny golden hue. Spanish ham a little too thin to make any impact. So I didn't really get the use of the celeriac, which seemed to overwhelm, even the great egg. Perfectly executed dish, but again, perhaps I would have substituted the celeriac, and re-ratio-ed the ham against the celeriac. But maybe it's just me..

Roasted Carabinero Gambas, Tomato Rice

While not a huge fan of shrimp, I enjoyed this course a lot. The essence of this imported shrimp from Spain was reduced to an umami-filled stock contained in the shell. Some of this was used to cook the short grained rice resulting in a slightly sweet, slightly tart, but robustly shrimpy sauce which covered but did not soak each grain. Flesh of the shrimp was bouncy but not tough and had a sweet finish. Very good.

US Tenderloin, mash croquette, artichoke, onion tempura

This was probably the most unexciting for me. The cut was a good one, but I personally enjoy something a lot more "beefy" and most tenderloins fail to deliver on that count. Accompaniments were competent, but not much more. So perhaps my least favorite course of the evening.

Plateau of French farm cheeses

Since B brought her own birthday cake, I chose the cheese plate over Gunther's signature apple tart with Havana rum ice cream. From the foreground of a soft and creamy Brie Savarin to a hard Cheddar taste-alike, and a slightly spicy but creamy cheese, they were all enjoyable. The only one I couldn't stomach was the Goat at the end. Not my thang.

Petit Fours

Gunther's petit fours are a happy ending to the tale. Loved his Canele the most, so well made with a firm crust exterior, and a moist and spongy interior. Perhaps next time, I will pack the untouched ones.

My overall take: professional service even if the younger server was a little hard-sell with the champagne and wines. But otherwise, very pleasant and adequately attentive. Food was perhaps a 7 (out of 10), not a wow, but decent cozy place to have a small intimate party with close ones, or a business meal with clients. Acoustics are not bad but can be a tad above the range if it gets busy.

36 Purvis Street
#01-03
Singapore 188613
Tel: +852-63388955

Hong Kong - Mango Tree

2012-01-26T13:30:00.001+08:00

Mango Tree is probably the most talked about Thai place in town after most people slammed the Greyhound Cafe at the IFC. I've not yet made the Greyhound but the 2 menus are distinct, of course. While Mango Tree offers traditional Thai dishes perhaps modernised for the international palate, Greyhound's menu is modernity with Thai influences. So between the 2, their only common denominator is that they are exported concepts from Thailand.

Mango Tree is possibly one of the more comfortable places in Hong Kong to enjoy Thai cuisine. It's bustling (mind you, it is still difficult to get reservations) but you don't feel the squeeze of Hong Kong in the dining room. Tables are decent sized and there is adequate distance between tables so you don't feel compelled to eavesdrop on your neighbors.

Lychee Smash

I loved that they had a wonderful drinks menu with something for everything. But whatever it was, it provided the perfect Thai resort feel and backdrop as you peruse the menu.

Crispy Rice Crackers - served with minced pork, peanuts and fresh coconut dip

Pomelo Salad

Starters were very competent and everything just came across as very fresh. Sometimes, with Thai food, the authenticity is sometimes marred by the imagination of a dirty street kitchen, which while adding to exoticism, tends to just disrupt the joy with a touch of concern - just a touch. But here you got the sense that the kitchen was just pristine, especially with the salad that was chilled right. And the starters did well to suppress hunger pangs while we waited to complete the party.

The rest of the food was again, internationalized Thai cuisine. Extremely competent and I will not hesitate to bring guests again.

Tom Yum Goong

If you like the prawny version ie. packed with a lot of shrimp roe, you will like this. It is spicy though.

Roasted Duck Curry

Can't go wrong with roast duck in the land of Cantonese roasts so the duck was actually well done. A little "wasted" in the curry, which was ok.

Thai Egg Omelette

This was a surprising wow. The perfect egginess and fluffiness combined and oh so fragrant. Given more substance with the minced pork but even a plain omelette of this quality would have made me happy.

Phad Thai

This did not have the usual Wok Hei (breath of the wok) which I like in my phad thai. The "dirtiness" of a well used wok would have given it the x-factor but I came away from this one imagining that it was stir fried in an ultra clean virgin stainless steel pan.

Barbequed Fresh Jumbo Squid

This was another very well executed dish. Perfect bounce of a squid just barely cooked but with slight crisp bits from being over a charcoal fire.

Homemade Ice Cream - Young Coconut

Homemade Ice Cream - Fresh Mango

Ice creams were creamy - in a good way. Definitely home made. The party liked the young coconut, which if you are a fan of coconut, you would lap up pretty easily. The fresh mango was tangy sweet, and made for an easier finish for me since I was pretty full from the meal.

Overall, a satisfying meal in decent surrounds. There is no rush even if you wanted to tarry after the meal. And there is enough of a drinks menu to make people happy and almost forget they're in HK.

5/F Cubus
1 Hoi Ping Road
Causeway Bay
Tel: +852-2577 0828

Hong Kong - Sushi Ta-ke 竹壽司

2012-01-08T17:25:00.000+08:00

In my recent compilation of annual faves for 2011, I listed Sushi Ta-ke as "best Japanese restaurant opening". In my 2 visits, I had the Omakase meal, which essentially means that like a lamb to the slaughter, you just perch and wait for food of the chef's choice to be served up and hopefully enjoyed. There is a fixed price to the menu so for the uninitiated, there isn't that apprehension over how much you're going to be hit with at the end of the evening. It's not a cheap place but for the overall experience, it's not totally unreasonable by Hong Kong standards.

Chef Kimijima Yukio with my minced toro handroll

And if you're lucky to be served by Chef Kimijima, you can also be entertained by his sense of humor, smattering of Japanese-accented Cantonese, and learn a thing or two about the food on your plate.

Overall, the raw food was more impressive than the cooked courses. In the beautiful season straddling the tail end of fall and beginning of winter, nature's gifts were in abundance.

Sweet shrimp and white shrimp duo

Shirako or cod sperm sac

Amberjack sashimi

Duo of prawn and Maguro (back of tuna)

Matsuba crab with egg yolk vinegar

This signature of Ta-ke's was very good. Sea-freshness from the crab, combined with the richness of egg yolk, but then put in its place by the vinegar. A clever and well-executed rendition which leaves the diner wondering why Japanese portions have to be the size they are. Still hankering..

In the cooked food segment, the wow! came from what Chef Kimijima called the egg dessert. Perplexed since we were hardly midway through, but we quickly realized what he meant.

Tamago

This is not your ordinary Japanese egg roll. This was akin to a polenta cake but with all the fragrance and goodness of good eggs, with a sweet finish. One of the best I've had. It's just worth a repeat visit to just go and have this although I did not see it on the menu. Perhaps only offered to diners who are naughty not nice?

After munching on tamago, we were too distracted to really pay much attention to the other cooked food. I just remembered the simmered dish being a tad too sweet for me, and the grilled fish wasn't my favourite, since I'm not a huge fan of sword fish.

Simmered fish

Grilled sword fish

Preserved radish, cucumbers, alfalfa and toasted sesame

A crunchy and fresh palate cleanser and we were off the to the sushi finale. And they were a great way to finish. All pieces were fresh, served lightly sauced so no added soy is necessary unless you're a sodium fiend, and the rice grains perfectly separate but with an appropriate stickiness to bind but not be mushy.

Hamachi with a Yuzu pepper

Chutoro

Sea Urchin

Miso soup

To end, a good quality miso which was beany but not salty put everything to bed, and concluded dinner on a comforting note. Nothing to rave about, just a period to the end of a good meal.

Ta-ke is probably some ways away from its Japanese inspiration of Ginza Sushi Koh Konten and isn't quite the Michelin star quality Konten is but it's a pretty decent alternative to the Japanese offerings in the Causeway Bay area.

12/F, Cubus
1 Hoi Ping Road
Causeway Bay
Tel: +852-2577 0611

Best of 2011

2011-12-30T10:30:00.000+08:00

Wow! Last work day of the year, and what a year it's been.

Perhaps the most critical natural disaster of the year was the 8.9 earthquake which hit Japan. The earthquake caused a tsunami of epic proportions which overwhelmed Japan’s eastern coast and consequently also caused a nuclear reactor crisis in Fukushima. In the wake of the devastation, every concerned individual wanted to do what he/she can to contribute towards the cause. Ironically, the most befitting support was not to boycott produce from Japan but to continue to source from them, under tightened safety and supervision. So, while many ignoramuses were snapping up salt to reduce radiation levels (don’t ask me how), I was just busy eating. In honor of the bravery of the many Japanese involved in rescue efforts, and the many who continue to thrive in difficult circumstances, here’s my best-of Japan list for 2011. My only regret was not having the opportunity to travel there this year, but it will hopefully make it as one of my destinations in 2012.

Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants in this post are in Hong Kong.

Best Sashimi – Hana Sakazuki
Best Sushi – Kenjo
Best Ramen – Ippudo HK
Best Chicken Ramen – Torihana
Best Toro Taku Don – Sushi Hiro
Best Goya Champeru – Yakichi
Best Japanese restaurant opening – Sushi Ta-ke
Best value in Singapore – Wahiro
Best salaryman’s secret in Singapore – Inaho's Kitchen Bar

In other food news, here’s my pick for 2011.

Best down and dirty Chiu Chow – 成發潮州菜館
Best down and dirty Hakka – Kong Hing Restaurant
Best Saikung Seafood – Sing Kee Seafood Restaurant
Best truffles – 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana
Best value Italian – Gold by Harlan Goldstein
Best suckling pig – 新斗记
Best foodies’ dinner – Sijie Sichuan Dishes
Best tea-pairing dinner – Lingnan Club / Mingcha
Best Caribbean private dining – Mandy's Private Kitchen
Best desserts – Sevva
Best fine dim sum – tie between Fook Lam Moon and T'ang Court
Best old school dim sum – Very Good Restaurant
Best brunch – Gusto
Best afternoon tea – Café Causette
Best bar - 001
Best TST openings to distract me from work – Holly Brown, Yo Mama , 18 Grams

In travel news, we did manage to hit a few places this year and try new foods.

Best Macau meal – Restaurante Espaco Lisboa
Best Barcelona Tapas – Cap Pep
Best Barcelona meal – Comerc, 24
Best Carcassone meal – Restaurant Le Parc

In tennis news, Roger Federer had yet another “bad” year, unable to win any Grand Slam in a calendar year for the first time since 2002. Such has been his phenomenal dominance of the sport. Notwithstanding, he still manages a hat trick of titles, capping off the year with the ATP World Finals trophy, Bercy which he had never won in his illustrious career, and of course his hometown Basel. Unsettling as it was, for the first time it was neither Federer nor Nadal who ended the year at No. 1 but Novak Djokovic, who had an awesome season with 41 straight match wins and 3 grand slam titles. History was also made when Li Na became the first Chinese woman to win a grand slam at Roland Garros, and appropriately so on June 4, the anniversary of the Tiananmen massacre. Finally, my other hero Justine Henin was unable to sustain her comeback due to injuries, and had to retire a second time - Shame.

In obituaries, we lost the following people and we felt sad one way or another. Elizabeth Taylor, Steve Jobs, Seve Ballesteros, Alan Tang, Teresa Hsu and Amy Winehouse. Each individual had contributed entertainment, technology, philanthropy and/or talent in their own special way, and they will each be missed. I’m not sure many will miss Osama bin Laden, Col. Muammar Gaddafi or Kim Jong Il, and certainly some are still debating if it is even appropriate to send condolences.

Closer to home, Singapore saw 2 elections this year and the advent of social media allowed the opposition to put up much more of a credible fight. Of course, the quality of the candidates fielded was significantly more impressive. While the nation decided in polls that they should only make history in baby steps, perhaps this signals a change and the next general election ought to be nothing short of interesting. The momentum carried through a little with the Presidential Elections but again, although margins were close, it was the mainstream candidate who came through.

In entertainment, and there was not time for much, I enjoyed my first Bob Dylan concert in Beijing. It was nothing short of awesome considering Mr. D’s age. His ability to sustain a 2 hour performance with no breaks was just amazing. And it was all great music even if I couldn’t make out the lyrics! No “wow!” movies in my opinion, but the following were certainly enjoyable. "Bruce Lee: My Brother" for the nostalgia 1940s to 1960s Hong Kong brings, "非誠勿擾 II or If You Are The One II"; for a little romantic reality, and "Wuxia" for Donnie Yen and Takashi Kaneshiro.

Once again, another year to be thankful and grateful for. Thanks for reading and here’s wishing you a fantastic 2012. Eat well.

Hong Kong - a tale of 2 suckling pigs

2011-12-18T19:31:00.000+08:00

The Cantonese are famous for their roasts. No, not the kind you eat with Yorkshire pudding, but the kind where the carcass is hung or pierced through with a steel rod, then licked by open flames till crisp and done. And where roast meats are concerned, some would take the view that the suckling pig is the holy grail. And for good reason. To cut short poor piggy's life because the skin is crispier and the meat more succulent and tender when cooked is reason for the premium it warrants over traditional roast pork.

And for that reason also, it is not meant for the everyday. In the old days, if you were average Joe, perhaps wedding dinners were the only time you might see the roast piglet. Nowadays, many Cantonese restaurants do the dish, and for those who want a treat every now and then, it is readily available, at least in Hong Kong. But there are only a few which really tout it as the house specialty.

For traditional roast piglet, I do like the one by 新鬥記 (pronounced Sun Tow Kei in Cantonese or Xin Dou Ji in Putonghua). I couldn't find an official English name for the place though.

Traditional Roast Piglet at 新鬥記

The crackling is done to a perfect crisp, with the fat underneath roasted away so that the taste is not greasy and on the contrary, quite addictive, especially if you've got cold beer at the table. The meat underneath absorbs the spices rubbed on and is fragrant (none of that "piggy" taste) and tender. Just quite perfect, really.

Kimberley's Roast Piglet

In contrast, the roast piglet at Kimberley is served 4-D, so you can still see the head and general shape of the pig. Not for the faint-hearted who are used to eating everything filleted and balk at the sight of source of the meat they consume. The wonder of this is the effort which goes into making this dish, where the insides of the pig are cleaned out to make way for a stuffing of richly flavored glutinous rice.

Cross-section view of Kimberley's roast piglet

The result is every diner at the table gets a "swiss roll" of rice on the inside enveloped by tender meat, then an "icing" around the cake of crisp crackling. The combination of textures and flavors overwhelms and it is really quite rich as you struggle to fit it all in, especially since they served this as a final course. Note to self: go even lighter with pre-dishes or just get at least 10 people at the table to enjoy this one comfortably. For obvious reasons you cannot get a half order which you can at Sun Tow Kei.

For an overall experience, I actually like the menu at Sun Tow Kei better.

Sun Tow Kei's steamed crab on rice

The steamed crab on rice is what lures me back time and again, alongside the roast piglet. Order these 2 dishes and you're all set. The crab is really nothing to speak of but the rice soaks up the juices from the crab and is then accentuated liberally with roast garlic and spring onions. Egg white is purely for texture to give the semblance that there is more crab than there is. The result is pure carbo heaven. I can down 2 bowls of this easily.

Whatever you fancy, both restaurants offer up their own specialties and make for an authentic Cantonese restaurant experience in Hong Kong. If you prefer to avoid the decibel levels associated with most restaurants in Hong Kong, go to Kimberley. Otherwise, brave the crowds at Sun Tow Kei and be prepared to wait (even if you make a reservation).

新斗記
2/F, Express By Holiday Inn, 33 Sharp East Street, Causeway Bay
Tel: +852-3162 8899

君怡閣中菜廳 Kimberley Chinese Restaurant
M/F, The Kimberley Hotel, 28 Kimberley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
Tel: +852-2369 8212 / 2723 3888

Hong Kong - 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana

2011-12-04T21:58:00.001+08:00

About a week before the Michelin guide announced its 2012 list, little did we realise that Mr. Umberto Bombana would go on to score 3 stars for his restaurant. Thanks to D, we scored reservations for this date about 10 weeks ago. Now that it's gotten 3 stars, that 10-week wait is only likely to increase.

Alba White truffles

Was it worth the hype? Well, I'll say as much. It is the best place to enjoy Alba truffles in Hong Kong.

And thanks to D, our very friendly server kept going and going.. to cheers and applause of course. Thankfully we were hidden from public view.

Buttered Parmesan linguini with white truffles

The result: a fabulous fragrance and taste which totally stole the show, making this one of the best pastas I've ever enjoyed. Only complaint: since our group was large, and there was only one guy shaving, the pasta was just a tad clumpy when we finally got down to it. But still thoroughly enjoyable.

And the rest of dinner?

Marinated Scampi - hybrid caviar, sea urchin and citrus Chantilly

A combination of the freshest ingredients. No one can argue with that. Naturally sweet, but those used to eating Japanese sweet shrimp might find this a tad bland by comparison. Caviar and sea urchin make up for it.

Duo of braised pork cheek and roast medallion of pork

While the cheek was awesome - soft, tender and juicy, the rest of the dish wasn't as mind blowing. Well executed.

Cheese platter

Hard cheeses here beat the soft cheeses in my opinion. Unfortunately, we didn't get the names of the cheeses. Choice of quince and apricot preserves were good matches.

Sabayon with Muscat grapes

Very pretty and refreshing. Good for those who like just a palate freshener after dinner, with a just of hint of ostentatiousness in the form of a gold leaf over the top.

Pear tart

A tad burnt one side, but otherwise quite good. More subtle than apple and not as sweet.

Petit fours

On the sweet side, I actually found the petit fours most enjoyable. The use of pistachios in the nougat pieces, and the use of hazelnuts in the meringue were very, very good. Wish they had doggie bags filled with these on our way out.

Overall, a great place to dine and enjoy the freshest which Mr. Bombana sources from around the world. Was it 3 stars' worth? I'm no Michelin judge so I won't even go there. But I will go back to Otto, at least for tartufos!

Shop 202, Alexandra House
18 Chater Road, Central

Tel: +852 2537 8859

Autumn Achievements - Hairy Crab

2011-11-27T15:41:00.001+08:00

This year's hairy crab season was enjoyed entirely outside of the home. A touch of lazy, a touch of convenience. No messy steaming, no messy washing up. Smiles..

Go traditional at Hong Kong Lao Shang Hai, one of Hong Kong's oldest Shanghai restaurants, where waiters are still in the traditional white shirt and black trousers, but both garments are washed thin and have seen better days. But the knowledge of the waiters on the food is unsurpassed and if you find one that's friendly enough to share, he is going to tell you what the real deal is and you shall follow his bid and enjoy a traditional Shanghainese meal in the heart of Wanchai.

Goose liver pate smeared with Zhejiang vinegar and honey

Yes, even the Chinese know a thing or two about their foie. And this is one fine way of enjoying it. Smooth liver paste served chilled and given a breath of acidity from the vinegar and honey "jam" over the top. Not greasy and very enjoyable. Only complaint - it's a mighty small serving.

Steamed hairy crab

Then the real McCoy arrives. And yes, please Mr. Waiter, I would like you to help open it up. And this one does not disappoint. The golden yellow hue of the roe is a sight for sore eyes and the accompanying crushed ginger in Zhejiang vinegar is an excellent way to cut through the richness of the roe.

Shanghainese pulled noodles with stir fried hairy crab

A wonderful way to retain the taste of the hairy crab is to have more of it - finishing with stir fried hairy crab, generously slathered over an al dente hand pulled noodles.

Glutinous rice dumplings in Osmanthus and Fermented rice syrup

This is probably one of the best of its kind. Extremely fragrant and without the usual cloying and tongue clinging sugariness in lesser bowls.

Xin Ji Shi's hairy crab bowl

For those really lazy and happen to be in Shanghai, just go to any Xin Ji Shi restaurant in the city and order a bowl of hairy crab. No peeling, snipping and digging necessary. It's all right there, stir fried with a hint of ginger and served in a generous deep terracotta bowl celebrating the crab. Just open up and say aaaaaaaah........

For those who want a touch of swank, with awesome views from within the No. 1 Peking Road building, another Shanghainese brand has set up its "premier" outlet there. Unfortunately, the Xiao Nan Guo in Hong Kong is not anywhere close in food standards to its Shanghainese mother.

Stir fried river shrimps with hairy crab

Spicy rice topped with hairy crab in a stone pot

The quality of the hairy crab used was unlike its name. It certainly wasn't premier since it didn't taste or smell like the crustacean we are used to. So despite clever creations, the punchline wasn't delivered and the joke was on the diner. Quite unfortunate.

A decent enough season but lesson learnt - enjoying hairy crab season is an aged old Shanghainese tradition which can only be enjoyed at timeless places. Forget the swank and just get down and dirty. You'll be a lot happier.

老上海飯店 Hong Kong Lao Shang Hai Restaurant

UG1, Novotel Hong Kong Century, 238 Jaffe Road, Wan Chai

Tel: +852-2827 9339

新吉士酒楼(久光店) Xin Ji Shi Restaurant (Jiu Guang Department Store branch)

静安区南京西路1618号久光百货8楼(近静安寺)

8th Floor, Jiu Guang Department Store, No. 1618 Nanjing Xi Lu, Jing An District (near Jing An temple)

Tel: +86-21-62883658

小南國壹號 Xiao Nan Guo Premier
10F, 1 Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
Tel: +852-2527 8899

GIrona - Massana

2011-11-20T16:12:00.001+08:00

So, this is my last post in the Spain/France series. Well, for the time being, until I make it to that culinary haven again, sooner rather than later. And since Girona is the cradle of this era's creative chefs, we had to at least chalk up one star in this lovely city. Being such poor planners, we took whatever was offered to us. So the solitary Michelin star we managed to bag was at Massana, conveniently located in the Eixample Nord district, not far from the city centre and our hotel.

Named after the guy who has run it since 1986, the restaurant has a bright pine setting in comfy but by no means plush surrounds, nor does it attempt to be trendy. Just simple and understated, and could pass off as a dining room in someone's home. Service by our female server was very professional and knowledgeable, friendly with a touch of humor, but without being intrusive. In some cases, we thought she stole the show over the food. Shame I've forgotten her name now..

Glass of Cava and we were ready to commence The Gastronomic Menu, which starts with 6 tapas to whet the appetite.

Foccacia with prime quality cured ham (foreground)
Cream of tomato, melon and crunchy duck ham

Cod, virgin olive oil and frozen tomato

Tinned beetroot with watermelon

Blini with leek, king prawn and bacon

Creamy mushroom fritter

All starters were innovative while respecting the original excellent quality of the local produce used. Suffice to say, we were wowed!

Marinated sardines, served on flat bread with tomato and basil tartare and balsamic ice cream

This was easily the best dish of the night for me, and I still dream of how fresh the sardines were and that oh so complementary balsamic ice cream on the top. A wondrous combination of the freshest ingredients which matches some of the best sashimi places I've been lucky to eat at.

Razor clam from the Galician Rias, citrus fruits and cauliflower

This was a novel way to eat razor clams, which are similar to the bamboo clams we get an abundance of in Hong Kong. Very fresh and the citricity was a nice balance to the mayo like sauce.

Rabbit shoulders in warm pickle and mushrooms

A tasty product from what was likely a stew done for hours with tender meat. Pickles were a nice touch against the salinity but from this dish on, the rest of the dishes unfortunately failed to sustain the wow factor, and while very competent, one major complaint was the unusually high salt factor which seemed to increase with every dish.

Creamy rice with "escorpora" and sea cucumber

I didn't know what an "esccorpora" is but I found out later that the fish is reddish with many spikes and which some translate to be a scorpion fish. Not something we catch off the South China Sea I suppose. Bouncy flesh akin to fugu. But alas everything was overpowered by salt, as was the next dish.

Loin of cod with wild mushroom sauce

Aside from the salt, a little overcooked by Asian standards.

Pork neck, tender and crunchy textures, black sausage and citric fruit salad

A lot more well balanced than the preceding courses but by then we were reaching our limits. Pity. Crackling was awesome though.

Choco-passion fruit and "marialluisa"

Any European restaurant worth its salt (pun intended!) will redeem itself with dessert. And this one did not disappoint. The use of "marialluisa", Spanish for lemon verbena, provided the tangy freshness which paired well with the usually cloying passion fruit and chocolate combo.

Rum savarin, apricot ice cream and purple fruit tea crumble

But if the sardines were my favorite savory dish of the evening, this was my favorite sweet one. A well soaked cake but not overpowered by alcohol, it was lovely and moist and matched by the apricot ice cream, even if I didn't care too much for the crumble. A nice end to a meal of hits and misses.

I wished we hadn't encountered the salt problem. Part of the rationale could have been that we didn't drink as much, opting not to go with the wine pairing. But still, I could feel a heart attack waiting to happen by the end of the night. If sodium levels weren't so high, it would have been one of the best meals.

Bonastruc de Porta, 10

17001 Girona

Tel: +34 972 21 38 20

Girona

2011-11-19T15:15:00.001+08:00

Girona - where buzz does not mean crowds.

I found it more manageable as a city than say, Barcelona. Of course, you can't beat the architecture and coolness of Barca but Girona is a lovely city to walk through and just soak in the colors and historical buildings all around.

Boira's Cod Brandada

It's also the culinary hotbed in Spain, and is home to the now-closed el Bulli and the 3-star El Celler de can Roca. Food was of very high quality and even an unassuming cafe offered a yummy chopped salmon and apple salad, as well as the local specialty of a cod brandada, which is an emulsion of salt cod and olive oil.

Occi's prawn carpaccio and foie gras shavings

Japanese sashimi chefs would find their match at Occi with the prawn carpaccio perfectly thinly sliced, as with the accompanying salad which boasts the same thinness with the foie gras shavings liberally layered over the top.

The city's proximity to the Costa Brava strip in the same province means a day trip to L'Escala is very doable. A small sleepy town which wakes up to many times its population of 6,000 in the peak seasons, of visitors who come to enjoy the unspoiled beaches....

the quaint little town centre with buildings from the past.....

Anchovies on tomato paste toast

and where you can also enjoy the town's most famous produce - anchovies.

If you just want a province which offers a myriad of things to do, but with a laid-back kind of feel, and get fed very well, Girona is just what you might be looking for.

Occi Restaurant
Mercaders, 3, Girona, Catalonia 17004

Boira Restaurant

Plaça Independència, 17, Girona, Catalonia 17001

Carcassone - Restaurant Le Parc

2011-11-06T22:34:00.002+08:00

We chalked up our second star in Carcassone at Franck Putelat's Restaurant Le Parc. In contrast with La Barbacane, and despite its proximity to the castle city, Le Parc is set in modernity and the dining area is reminiscent of a contemporary dining room in a 21st century home. Masculine whites, grays and blacks, given a splash of color by a burnt orange carpet, and accentuated by a glassless chandelier. Service was efficient and un-intrusive, yet friendly.

Amuse Bouche

And these would be the best lollipops I've ever had in my entire life. And it wasn't even sweet. A clever foam like extract of what I guessed to be lobster. So light, so clever, so good.

Appetizers

The sweetest tomato with a crisp shell, the yummiest celeriac macaron. So good that even the decadent salmon and foie gras stack paled in novelty. A supreme promise of things to come.

Breads are made in-house and good, even if served cold, with house-made au naturel and seaweed butters and a tiny bowl of sea salt for taste.

Bouillabaisse Of Foie Gras, Shells, Pink Fir Apple, Rust

Toothpaste squirt of a garlic-based paste

This is certainly one form of foie gras I've never had and I'll tell you, in a soup, it's awesome. Even richer than the liver and brandy soups mom used to make when we were little to boost our iron count. This was smooth, rich yet light. And the seafood was just lightly cooked to showcase its freshness. The garlic paste in a toothpaste tube added the right amount of heat to the crostini for a crispy bite of voila, garlic bread.

Scallops, Studded In The Iberian Chorizo, Cep In The Verbena, Vinaigrette In Condiments

This was refreshingly light yet tasty, primarily from the yummy Chorizo. My only request would be that the scallops be seared a little since it got to a state that was between cooked and uncooked - losing the crunch from a sashimi grade but not yet achieving the seared goodness of a pan sealed one, as a result getting a little monotonous after a while.

Fresh and matured cheeses from Aude area, and from elsewhere

This was one of the reasons we selected the Emotion menu. The 2 storey trolley of cheeses presented were so inviting. I wished the main courses were smaller, ok I didn't really. But I really wished my stomach had more room beyond the 3 cheeses I selected. Since we were in the area, my selections were all from the Aude area. I selected a semi-hard cow and a matured goat, and a blue. With the exception of the musty blue which I couldn't finish, the cherry compote condiment was a fine friend to the cheeses and I was a happy camper.

Fig Candied In The Red Wine, Pepper Ice Cream

Yes, we're French so we have 2 desserts. Yay! I love the balance of spicy pepper, cooled in its ice cream form, with the natural sweetness from the figs and alcoholicism from the wine. Balance just allows you to put away that much more.

Chocolate Biscuit and Hazelnut, White Coffee Ice Cream and Flower Of Salt

Same thing with this one using salt although overall, the sugar content and richness was a little more telling with this one on account of the chocolate. But again, balanced so that finishing every morsel is not difficult at all.

Sweet Delights

And we still had a little room to sample the petit fours, which were all good too.

The wine pairing with the dinner with wines from the region were also fantastic and highly recommended if you're not driving since it was awesome value.

I realized after the fact, that Le Parc is expected to receive a second Michelin star, and based on our meal there, it would certainly be well deserved.

Chemin des Anglais
11000 Carcassonne
Tél: 04 68 71 80 80

Carcassone - La Barbacane

2011-11-06T13:27:00.001+08:00

It has one Michelin star but I think it was more for the awesome setting than the food. The food wasn't bad at all but it wasn't the best star on our trip. But we still got a kick out of dining at an institution set on the grounds of the beautiful Cite de Carcassone, a UNESCO heritage site since 1997.

The restaurant is situated within the Hotel de la Cite with a beautifully manicured garden overlooking the city of Carcassone as well as the Castle towers.

The dining area keeps within theme and is similarly medieval in decor and feel, and we felt we should have made an effort to come in costume, as a knight or m'lady. But a group of 20 elderly Japanese tourists at the neighboring long table brought us quickly back to the 21st century, or is it the 20th since the 21st is about mainlander tourists??

Trout with Creme Fraiche and Caviar

A combination which cannot really go wrong. Nice accompaniment to the apertifs we did not order..

Amuse Bouche

I don't remember much of the amuse bouche. It was quite good but just wasn't that memorable.

Duck Foie Gras with caramel-coated peanuts, orange marmalade and warm brioche bun

The region is famous for foie and La Barbacane prides itself on its house made terrine. And it was very good, very livery fragrant. The use of the crushed sweet nuts was clever in adding texture and taking away any cloying richness so you can enjoy the whole thing without feeling sick. Of course the marmalade with a hint of citrusity gave it an added dimension. I didn't think we needed the brioche at all and was happy just eating this as presented.

Extra fresh egg served soft-boiled, Brittany lobster and ceps in a fine passion fruit ragout, cream of mushrooms

This was just a decadent breakfast in a bowl. Egg was perfectly cooked and the freshness did come through, coming away with the feeling this was rushed from coop to kitchen. Nothing overpowered and the combination of all the ingredients worked surprisingly well since I wasn't initially sure about the passion fruit ragout.

Charolais beef fillet stuffed with foie gras, braised beef cheek, truffled potato and onion churros, Périgourdine sauce

The beef stuffed with foie was simply quite divine and it was a good cut balancing meatiness and marbling so only moderate effort in chewing to savor the taste of the cattle was required. The beef cheek stacked with vegetables I wasn't so sure about. It wasn't bad but just not my thing. Cheek was purposefully dried out to allow for the streaks to be flavourful but I didn't fancy it getting between the teeth.

Fresh Fig on an almond pie, a flan, vanilla Chibouste sauce, pine-nut ice cream, house-made rhum arrangé flavoured with sugar, lemon and vanilla

I love fresh figs and almond pie so this was perfect. The condiments were just complementary but I could do with them or without. It was just about the 2 main actors.

Petit fours

Traditionally pretty but we were a little too stuffed to enjoy them although we snuck the jelly and sword swooshed macaron in. Nice touch.

Overall, I thought the wow factor came from the beautiful medieval setting of the restaurant. The food was certainly good but just paled in comparison. Recommended for those who are first time visitors to Carcassone. after all, it is a beautiful place to chalk up another star, for those who collect them.

Hôtel de La Cité

Place Auguste-Pierre Pont

11000 Carcassonne, France
Tel: +33 4 68 71 98 71

Carcassone

2011-10-23T17:32:00.001+08:00

Carcassone is a medieval town with plenty of history and is pretty much divided into the old city and the rest of town. The old city is developed around the Cite de Carcassone, and the fortress within was declared a UNESCO heritage site in 1997. Word has it the Walt Disney derived his inspiration for Fantasyland from here.

Even night views of the fortress are majestic.

St Nazarius' Basilica which sits within the walled city is also a magnificent structure, a neo-Gothic exterior housing a majestic interior of pristine stained glass windows and ornate carvings on its walls.

The view of the expansive lower city as seen from the vantage point within the fortress on a clear day is pretty amazing. Much of the fortress was restored only in the 19th century and very well done, I might add. Yes, it's touristy but not overly so, and very enjoyable.

The city still houses many artisan shops, with carvings, traditional foods and produce, etc. This particular shop we went into stocks a myriad of preserves, breads, and of course visitors can bring home the packed version of the local specialty, Cassoulet de Canard.

Next up: fine dining in Carcassone.

Figueres - Perpignan

2011-10-23T14:52:00.001+08:00

City Centre of Figueres

One of the great things about driving holidays is the ability to stop wherever you like, whenever you like. So on the road trip from Barcelona across the French border, we stopped in Figueres, the birth place of Salvador Dali. Of course, there would be a lot of Dali paraphernalia in this small town. Not that we noticed, and being the shallow tourists we are, we actually took just a 30 minute stroll around town and spent the other 60 minutes eating.

Salt cod and young garlic omelette

The yummiest thing we had at this pretty pit stop was a salt cod and young garlic omelette at the Sentits Restaurant Gastronomic. A non-descript cafe-bar type place but with quite an innovative menu to wow, created around the 5 senses, rather than a simple starter, main and dessert type layout. And while pretty home-style in taste and presentation, the quality was surprisingly good. Quite a gem.

Happily fed, we continued our drive towards Perpignan. Enroute, we passed La Jonquera, and a sight we kept seeing were the many prostitutes peddling their services along highways and service roads. Unfamiliar with the lay of the land, we did not stop to snap a pic or 2, but the element of novelty was mixed with a wariness of the sinister operation behind it, and a tinge of sadness for the dangerous way these women have to endure in order to make a living. We later discover through the worldwide web that La Jonquera is home to Europe's largest brothel and because authorities are lax to enforce uncertain prostitution laws, this town does a roaring business attracting the French from across the border.

Perpignan city centre

Beyond La Jonquera, we arrive at Perpignan about an hour from the border. Perpignan is a medieval French town founded in the 10th century, the centre of battles between the French and Spanish throughout history and finally being ceded to the French in the 17th century. It is the last major town in the Languedoc Rousillon region before crossing the border to Spain. Having arrived on a Sunday, it was very much ghost town since all the shops were closed.

But it was still a pleasant enough walk around town, exploring a couple of the historical sights near the city centre, and pretty brick laid houses with quaint stores at ground level.

Food wise, despite the proximity to Spain, was more French in style but with Catalan produce like jamon in abundance. On Sunday night, there wasn't a whole lot of choice with food since most restaurants were shut too. But at the suggestion of the hotel concierge, we ate at Cafe Vienne, right in the centre of town. We were a little apprehensive since it was right smack in tourist belt but quality was more than competent.

Cafe Vienne's Mussels Mariniere

Cafe Vienne's Duck Confit with Potatoes

We stuck to staples like mussels mariniere and duck confit, so we weren't disappointed. A rustic provincial type of meal which hit the spot after a long driving day.

Le Petit Moka's Chicken Gizzard Salad

Le Petit Moka's Crepe Miele

Lunch in the summer (albeit at the tail end) is very much a baguette or salad deal. We chose a place which seem to do a moderate to busy business offering a large variety of salads. Since they were out of chicken livers, we went with chicken gizzards. Surprisingly very tasty with caramelised pearl onions, crispy bacon and a honey vinaigrette. To finish, the other French staple of a thin crepe drizzled liberally with honey.

And we were off again. Next stop: Carcassone.

Sentits Restaurant Gastronomic
Calle de la Rambla, 11-12
Figueres, Cataluña 17600

Cafe Vienne
3 Place Arago
Perpignan, France 66000

Le Petit Moka
37 Quai Vauban
Perpignan, Languedoc-Roussillon

Barcelona - Comerc, 24

2011-10-16T23:47:00.002+08:00

Barcelona is very much the cradle of newer cuisine. Ferran Adria has left his mark in many places, and Carles Abellan, the owner of Comerc, 24 has worked for Adria at El Bulli and has also managed his other ventures. Needless to say, there is an Adria mark on the food at Comerc, 24. The food is served very much tapas style, all in reasonably small portions, but there are enough courses in the tasting menu so you don't leave hungry.

Choice of breads and oils

They are quick to impress as soon you are all settled, ordered (ie. left it to the chef), and served the apertifs. A wooden case with 4 Spanish olive oils and 3 freshly baked loaves delivered to the counter seat where we were. This is probably the only place on our whole trip where we had any semblance of a warm loaf. The 4 oils were distinctly different and interestingly so. Pity I didn't take better notes.

Dinner was 10 courses (excluding desserts). There were many hits and while all were executed well, some were a little more blah. Here's a glimpse into the Festival Menu.

Cauliflower with smoked tea and nori
Cauliflower with rice vinegar and ginger
Monkfish with black sesame and black garlic

The fish section was a decent enough starter, alongside the cauliflower cold soup with smoked tea and nori. No wows. But the vinegared cauliflower was too much reminiscent of the type of pickled cauliflower you get from the tableside little pot at your local wanton noodle shop. So it did nothing for me except remind me of home.

Filo, Parma, Basil and Lemon

A nice savory take on the local Catalan biscuit version.

Pizza 24

This was a wowzer primarily because everything was so fresh. Tomatoes, figs, Burrata and Basil are definitely best friends.

Sardines with Orange and fresh Wasabi

Same wow factor with fresh sardines, given a tang by the citrusy orange. The wasabi was mild enough not to intrude and the crushed dry-fried pine nuts were just clever.

Tuna tartar

Another wow. We've all had chopped tuna (a chutoro cut no less) topped with salmon roe. But to seal them with an egg yolk sauce was just plain touch of heaven. Really didn't want this one to end.

Consomme with Parmesan, Truffle and Egg

This one was great for the novelty factor. White for Parmesan, Yellow for Egg and of course, Black for Truffle. Tasted good too - the flavors coming through more than it looked.

Cod with Romesco

The zucchini flower is always welcome. Good overall but the cod was an ok for me.

Duck rice with Foie

Another one of his specialties, we thought it was too small since it was really good. But we understood why since the ball of foie cream did get rich and heavy. Meant to be eaten all together, this was the epitome of duck coming through. Again the crunch was clever to lift away some of the heaviness and the chewing allowed you to savor the goodness for that much longer.

To cleanse our senses, we weren't told to go outside to get some fresh air. Instead we were served a couple of sprigs of Rosemary in a bowl of hot water and just told to breathe. Ah.....

Whiting with Mediterranean Vinaigrette

Good but not great. It felt that the whiting might have been over-vinegared very slightly, but the crisp fish skin was a nice touch.

Sirloin with Turnips

Very decent cut of beef but the turnips were clever and light, especially since we were nearing the end and getting full (though not uncomfortable). It was also reminiscent of the soft radish from a braised beef brisket consomme in Hong Kong.

Dessert was 5 courses. Probably the most we had at any place.

Lemon Ice Tea

Light start to switch into dessert mode. Not a real fan of pineapple though.

Yogurt/Cherry

Loved the lightness of this one. Great palate cleanser and felt like breakfast all over again.

Recuit Napolita with Strawberries

This was my least favorite since the cheese chosen was a little too blue for me. A tad too strong and overpowered everything else in the little pot.

Apple/Saffron

Nice build up with chocolate bits, to the grand finale.

Conguitos C, 24

This was my favorite. It really was reminiscent of a chilled Peanut M&M, as our server warned. And boy was it the grand finale of desserts. Excellent.

Petit fours

The green tea white chocolate deserves special mention!

Overall, an excellent experience which although executed in the heart of Catalan, were nothing short of an infusion of international cultures, especially Japanese. Thoroughly enjoyable. Special thanks to @g4gary for the recommendation!

Carrer Comerc, 24
Barcelona 08003
Tel: +34- 933192102

Barcelona - Tapas Territory

2011-10-08T07:47:00.001+08:00

Whenit comes to food portions, the Spanish have gotten it right. Nobody wants to eat a whole lot of the samething anymore. With obesity becoming aproblem in most of the developed world, everyone should just learn to eat inmoderation. Have Tapas – where you canget small doses of variety. Yes, you canwash it down with a beer or Sangria. Inmoderation, of course.

Legendhas it that when wine was offered to a Spanish King in medieval times, a pieceof bread or cured meat was laid on top of the cup to protect its contents. Henceforth, the variety of tapas (which inSpanish is taken from the word “Tapa” which refers to a lid or cover) grew andbecame as important as the alcohol itself. Presumably so people don’t keelover from too much alcohol on an empty stomach before dinner starts, and inSpanish terms, that is no earlier than 9pm.

Here’ssome of the more memorable Tapas we ate in Barcelona. Needless to say, they were all delish.

Tapas 24’s McFoie Burger

Tapas, 24 is the brainchild of Carles Abellan, probably more well-known for his formal dining restaurant Comerc 24. Like many other protégés, he too hailed from doing time under Ferran Adria at his famous but now defunct El Bulli.

Lolita Taperia’s eggplant tempura with sweet molasses

Lolita Taperia was co-founded by Joan Martinez and Albert Adria, yes Ferran’s brother, initially known as Inopia. Albert has since left the venture and Joan renamed it to a saucier Lolita with the signature red lipstick mark on all its paraphernalia.

Cal Pep’s Potato omelet with mayo

Cal Pep's deep fried peppers

Cal Pep is helmed by Pep Manubens, who oversees a busy live kitchen show at opening times. The sights, smells and sounds are a delight as diners feast on the freshest of the day. Food is kept simple and in its truest form so there is little to no dress up, pretty plates or foam! And yes, I hear he is a good friend of Ferran too.

Maitea’s marinated sardine

Forsomething more rustic, we tried Maitea and although coming away a little shakenfrom witnessing a petty theft right on the premises on our first night, it wasvibrant and friendly. Just don't sit too hear the door and don't leave your bag on the floor. Tapas here were moretraditional too with almost everything served on a slice of baguette.

Note: Manyplaces don’t take reservations if your party is less than 4, you can either headthere early, or have a beer, soak in the atmosphere, and wait. Or perhaps name drop? I hear Ferran is a good one..

Tapas, 24

Carrer de la diputacio,269

Tel: +34-934880977

Lolita Taperia

Tamarit 104 · local 2-4
Tel: +34-934245231

Cal Pep

Placa de les Olles, 8
Tel: +34-933107961

Maitea

Carrer de Casanova, 157

+34-934395107

Barcelona

2011-10-03T06:09:00.002+08:00

Casa Batllo

Impressions after 2 days? Yes, this place is crazy about Gaudi.

Even their geckos are Gaudi inspired. While I must admit the guy was very clever about using natural light andintroducing ergonomics into his work, I’m not a fan of the wavy lines he takesfrom the inspiration of the sea in creating his Casa Batllo. It’s a great work, and very progressive forhis time, but it’s just not my thing. Imean come on, even the city’s drain covers have wavy lines?

What I do like about the architecture in this city, is thateverything is very neat on the outside, yet different. The style variety of each building frontcomes together in the uniformity of the balconies each unit has. Really does justice to the plenty ofcloudless blue sky days this city enjoys. Picturesque indeed.

The picture is somewhat marred by the amount of petty crimeI heard all about from each person who has ever visited the city. We even witnessed at dinner one evening, whena poor man got his bag nicked in what was all of 5 seconds literally from underhis feet. The slick operator distractedeveryone by being on the phone, walked into the bar, swiped the bag and was onhis way out in that short space of time. Spain has done a lot to sell itself as tourist friendly, but it reallyneeds to do more to allow visitors to have fun with peace of mind. Since that episode, I’ve spared no effort inclutching onto my belongings. Morestressful than work, really.

That’s really one of the reasons I don’t particularly enjoyLa Rambla. I don’t get the deal on themain drag. In fact, it’s so crowded andunsettling that it’s really a drag walking there, with the many Paella andTapas touts. I mean really? It does get better within the rabbit warren ofstreets in the old quarter off La Rambla with its trendy stores, and the walkdown to the pier is pleasant enough.

The La Boqueria market though can be a highlight. A busy cacophony of stalls selling localproduce from fruit to fruits of the sea, spices and of course, little Tapasbars offering Tapas and beer for the weary. The only bar which was still opened at 5pm when we got there was quite underwhelmingbut we were a little too hungry to care.

There are however, very decent restaurants around the areaand one worthy of mention which many do the food Mecca through is Cal Pep. You can’t make reservations if your party isless than 4, and so we join the ranks of many who queue before opening to scorea seat. If you miss the first round ofseatings, you get a beer and wait behind the lucky ones who make the firstseating. The tremendous amount of actionwhich occurs under the watchful eye of Pep Manubens is organized chaos. And the system seems to work. Once you get a seat at the bar, you get thefreshest offerings of the day.

The walk around Gothic quarter post lunch is an extremelypleasant one, working off all of that excellent food, looking at butcherias,trendy shoe stores and just soaking in the old historical feel of the area.

For a breather from the city, a day trip to Montserrat tovisit the Benedictine monastery set in the hills is quite an experience. The cathedral is a work of art and the surroundingpeaks are excellent photo opportunities as well. If you like choir boy singing, be sure tocheck they are there. We lucked outsince they are absent this whole week.

Stay tuned for more about the food!

Singapore - DB Bistro Moderne

2011-09-18T15:43:00.000+08:00

Ladies who lunch are fab. It's been so busy that I've forgotten how to enjoy a leisurely lunch. And so on the eve of a holiday, it doesn't get better.

Daniel Boulud, one of the celebrity chefs who've set up shop in Singapore, has his bistro in the newish Sands integrated resort down in Marina Bay. It's a comfortable place to dine in, with warm lighting, dark wood interiors, reminiscent of a old-style Parisian bistro but with modern fittings.

I ordered a home-made lemonade, which was overly sweet. And cloyingly so. I don't know why I didn't send it back since it was almost like drinking undiluted cordial. Must have been the holiday mood..

Bread Basket

No complaints with the bread basket, which eased the hunger pangs of a late lunch. Soft, with a nice chewy texture. If only they used better butter..

Tarte Fine Provencal

I wasn't quite sure about this one. My favorite bit was the smoked Mozarella melted over the top. The chewiness of the cheese allowed the savory smokiness to linger and bring what was otherwise lacking in flavor to the tart. The chopped up tomato and eggplant under the cheese was ratatouille like and while you could tell the 2 ingredients, didn't taste of much more. Maybe it's just me, but the combination of the 2 just wasn't enough. The squirt tail of Sauce Vierge on the side didn't add anything either. Pleasant enough but very person-next-door. Wouldn't order it again.

The Frenchie Burger

The burger on the other hand was total Yums. A good quality beef patty topped with a confit pork belly (like bacon but thicker and better)! The other condiments of caramelised onions, Morbier cheese (a French Mozarella) and cornichons added to the experience but did not distract. It was really about the 2 meats. I was a little apprehensive about the black pepper bun at first but happy it did not add too much spice. And of course the fries were nothing short of good. Even towards the end of the meal, they retained their crispiness and were extremely full flavored. Probably deep fried in fat, but that's how you get that quality, so really can't argue with that.

Gourmet burgers are the way to go here so next time I want my fix, I know where to go. Will I be a lady who lunches again soon enough?

The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands
2 Bayfront Avenue
Tel: +65-66888525

Singapore - Osteria Italia

2011-09-13T00:53:00.003+08:00

We chose to eat early and not have to struggle with reservations on a Friday night. Especially since we had been turned away once. The expectation hanging over the place was inevitable. We sat down to efficient and professional service from who we guessed is probably the lady owner. If not, they probably have some great incentive scheme going for their employees. Iced water was poured promptly and drinks orders taken while she left us alone for a little while to pore the menu.

A typical menu of a casual Italian eatery, offering up appetizers, pastas, pizzas and a small selection of meats/seafood.

Amuse Bouche

Our amuse bouche of a tomato crostini drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and topped with a solitary Parmesan shaving was good. The tomatoes were sweet and the Parmesan a decent quality.

Caprese alla Bufala
Buffalo Mozzarella with vine ripe tomatoes

The Caprese was actually very good. Fresh tomatoes and Arugula (with the right amount of spiciness) matched with a creamy Bufala and it all came together with the aged Balsamic, which provided a sticky sweet finish.

Cartoccio di Mare
Seafood wrapped in tin foil

I was a little puzzled by this one. The spaghetti was perfectly cooked, with just the right touch of bite. However, the seafood was a big letdown. It just wasn't the freshest and as a result, there was no sea taste at all in the tomato-based sauce. I came away with the feeling that the seafood was separately cooked from the pasta and sauce inside the foil, which misses the point of a Cartoccio. It probably wasn't the case, but it tasted like so. Such a shame.

Wagyu Beef Cheek braised in a red wine sauce

The beef cheek was a little better and infused with the goodness of the red wine it was braised in. End result: a melt-in-the-mouth piece of meat. However, for non-beef lovers, don't order this since it is rather gamey since there wasn't enough done to cover that off. My other complaint was that the chef was a little heavy handed with the salt and you couldn't take as much sauce as you want without feeling a little dehydrated afterwards.

I didn't have dessert since I was distracted by the durian mooncakes available 2 shops away. Overall, it's a comfy laid back joint, and I might go back. If I do, I would try the other items on the menu since what we ordered didn't really blow us away. Bruno's is still my choice Italian joint in the East but Osteria has some potential. The chefs are really quite good, as long as the produce they have to work with improves.

201 Telok Kurau Road

#01-06 Kurau Court

Tel: +65 6346 3970

Hong Kong - 聯合興食館 Luen Hop Hing

2011-09-04T15:17:00.000+08:00

Tennis buddies touted it as the Chiu Chow beer place. Well, as it turns out, it was true. Down and dirty in Lok Fu, the neighbouring enclave to Chiu Chow territory of Kowloon City, we ended up at a bustling (read 100 decibel noisy) place and this was past 10pm on a Saturday night. Early for some I suppose but whatever it was, everyone who was seated was guzzling European lagers, draughts and stouts, and chomping down traditional Chiu Chow delicacies.

I ordered myself an Erdinger, as did the rest of the 12 of us. So they loaded 20 bottles into a blue plastic pail filled with ice and plonked it table-side, complete with bottle opener. Yes, help yourself to more...

We started of course with Chiu Chow essentials:

Coagulated Pigs' Blood with Chives 韭菜豬紅

This actually tastes better than it sounds or looks. The texture is akin to a firm curdy tofu with a little bite, really what eating blood is all about. Tasteless by itself, but immersed in a peppery soy gravy with chives, it's the quintessential starter to a get-down-and-dirty Chiu Chow meal.

Braised Phoenix claws with peanuts 花生鳳爪

Another staple but not my favourite way to eat chicken feet. The Cantonese do a better job braising it in an abalone sauce. In contrast, this version was a tad tasteless.

Steamed Grey Mullet 蒸烏頭

This was quite good and had enough salt rubbed over it to enhance the taste of the fish. In any case, it is served with the Chinese version of Miso ie. a preserved yellow bean sauce, if you like a savory beany finish.

Braised Goose 鹵水鵝

Competently done, quite tender and juicy.

Braised Spring Vegetables with Pork 春菜煲

Until D introduced this to me, I never realised this was a Chiu Chow dish. My Cantonese side generally doesn't like my vegetables cooked to death so I treat this more like a meat dish. It's actually very tasty from braising with the garlic and pork. Of course, I haven't figured out what "spring vegetables" are but am guessing it's the mustard green family just by looks alone.

The King of Stir Fries 小炒皇

This is a classic dish with no classic ingredients. My theory is that it is really whatever in the good old days of the larder which had to be used up and so, clever housewives just threw everything in the wok and over a high heat, stir fried everything to a fragrant and glossy finish. But whatever made it into the wok typically goes great with a piping bowl of Chiu Chow porridge. This one had chives, with crispy silver fish and cashews.

Steamed Eel in Black Bean Sauce 豉汁蒸鱔

Unlike the Japanese variety, this eel when cooked is a crunchier texture and addictive with the very tasty black bean sauce. Only snag is that this creature has a lot of tiny bones that you have to be careful of.

Deep fried Stuffed Pigs' Intestines 釀豬大腸

This one was a big let down. I'm a huge fan of deep fried pigs' intestines especially those you see at street stalls since they are double deep fried (and yes, doubly unhealthy). This one was a little chewy and not crispy enough but the use of a shrimp colloid stuffing was inventive although not enough to make it a winner.

For the benefit of the men, we ordered some meat even if these were by no means very Chiu Chow.

Grilled Cumin Pork Ribs 孜然排骨

I like Cumin grilled meats. Reminds me of the new frontier. This was a good attempt, but they overdid the bicarbonate on the meat. A shame since all that was left was the taste of Cumin and little else.

Sweet and Sour Pork 咕撈肉

This was not the usual rendition since they gave it a Chiu Chow twist by using a sauce derived from salted sour plums. Interesting but nothing to scream about.

Preserved Mustard Greens with Grass Carp Claypot Rice 梅菜鯇魚煲仔飯

To finish, a little bit of carbs from a claypot rice. A popular dish in winter but we figured the air-conditioning was strong enough. Often times, fellow diners get too impatient and open up the pot too quickly. This time, I watched it like a hawk and hit anyone with my chopsticks if anyone's fingers went near. And we were all rewarded with ample rice crispies we scraped from the sides of the pot. Perfect texture against the sweet vegetables, and smooth flesh of the fish. Great way to finish.

The food ain't the best but there is enough variety so just stick with the staples. The choice of beers is another novelty. Overall, I would still say it's yet another successful down and dirty post tennis dinner. Ace.

Shop 4, Lok Fu Shopping Centre
198 Junction Road
Lok Fu
Tel: +852-2337 2038

Hong Kong - Sevva

2011-08-21T15:32:00.000+08:00

In space scarce Hong Kong, Sevva would be ideal luxe home everybody dreams (not works since you would never get there on hard work alone) of having. Huge terrace to chill and have drinks at (it's not a barbeque area although that might work..), a lounge to escape from the elements on the terrace, and generous dining areas well decked with fine tableware. If the folks running the place ventured into full blown hospitality, I would be most curious to see what their rooms would look like.

Apart from the drinks, which I'm told are pretty good, Sevva is probably next best known for desserts created by Mrs B. Creations at Sevva differ slightly from her cakery in a nearby location but it's all good. The 2 I've tried on the 2 occasions I've been there are nothing short of pure bliss. You know that the highest quality cream, flour and eggs went into producing them and you have no qualms licking every bit off the plate. Best sweets I've had in a long time especially this part of the world. And they are some of the most photogenic in the world (not cut up as below but whole - there was a no photo policy at the cake counter though..)

Original Crunch Cake

Extremely light vanilla chiffon bound together by freshest cream and topped off with the childhood fave of honeycomb crunch.. remember Violet Crumble? Yup, this is the adult refined version but just as addictive.

Chocolate Fudge Cake with Orange Marmalade

I love chocolate fudge but almost never finish one serving on cake since it gets cloying and heavy after a while. Well, no problems with this one, and this is after a full dinner. Speaks volumes (pun intended). It's rich but not heavy and the real marmalade (it's not orange jam - cringe) made from simmering orange rind in sugar was a delightful complement and made every mouthful delectably easy on the palate.

Almost no one I know talks about the food at Sevva. So one assumes it's just not that good. But surprisingly, it isn't bad at all. The food menu at Sevva is as varied as varied can be, and really looks like something you pull out of a good class hotel cafe. With no particular cuisine theme, it huddles together what its kitchen is capable of pulling off pretty successfully. From English to Chinese to Indian and hints of modern European, it's really quite an ideal place to entertain clients especially those you don't know too well.

On my first visit, I tried the Dosas - one with lamb and one with chicken. Both exemplary in taste. Don't expect traditional Indian but think of it as modern ingredients delivered in a thin crepe of Indian influence.

Lobster Crepe

At dinner this time, the appetiser of the lobster crepe was excellent. A light but flavourful butter based sauce laced with alcohol from the Champagne or was it Cognac.. whatever it was, it was drizzled over a thin crepe and lobster which was fresh and just barely cooked to be succulent and juicy.

Breakfast Salad

Sevva has a page-long offering of warm salads. And at least from the 2 I've tried, they taste as good as they sound. The deep fried tofu salad is reminiscent of the classic Cantonese appetiser but tossed among salad leaves and quail eggs, it made for a very tasty meal in itself and you could almost fool yourself into thinking deep fried food can be healthy too..

The breakfast salad is no different. With all the goodies we love from breakfast including 2 well deep fried pieces of streaky bacon, sausages, a coddled egg with a liquid centre, tossed among leafy greens and tomatoes, what you get is a well balanced meal of saturated fat and fibre. Good!

Beef Pot Pie

The main of the beef pot pie, which was served with a flaky pastry cap, was pretty good but seemed blah against the rest of the meal. Competent though and the use of ox tongue in some of the pieces was a nice touch too. Taste wise competent but not mind blowingly so. Given the extensive menu, it wouldn't be what I would order next time.

Overall, an excellent venue to enjoy whatever tickles your fancy in schmancy surrounds overlooking what makes the whole financial district of Hong Kong tick.

25/F Prince's Building
10 Chater Road
Central
Tel: +852-2537 1388

Hong Kong - Sijie Sichuan Dishes 四姐川菜

2011-08-14T13:17:00.001+08:00

It's labeled as a private kitchen in some places, but it's not that kind of place. Housed in a building which looks like every other building in Wanchai (or known in some quarters as the World of Suzie Wong), the only hint of a restaurant behind the door is the bunch of of red hot chili peppers hanging on the front door. Inside, it is as spartan as spartan can be with tables of varying sizes lined along what looks like 2 units leased by the restaurant. But the smells are mistakably Sichuanese. You can almost feel yourself immersed in an oil of Sichuan peppers, deeper and deeper as the night progresses, especially as Sijie whips up a storm in the kitchen. Tip: do not wear clothes which have to be dry-cleaned or carry any leather bags to dinner..

Service is extremely friendly and helpful. I had to call ahead for directions and parking facilities and the dude who answered very patiently guided me through the streets of Wanchai, which for those living here will know, is not car-friendly.

The focus is on the food here since there is little else except for Sijie's chugging antics at the end of a long night. Refined cuisine is not on offer either. What you get is a piece of Sichuanese authenticity tucked in central Hong Kong and all the fiery robustness of what makes a hearty Sichuanese meal.

The huge bonus of eating in a big group, and a group of like-minded foodies is that you get to order almost everything on the menu. Pricing works on a per person basis and so depending on how many people you have, you are allowed to order the number of dishes for that price. No more, no less.

Cold noodles tossed in Chili Oil

This was the quintessential Sijie appetiser which kicked us off and was easily the unanimous favourite of the evening. Chilled al dente pulled noodles tossed in an addictive spicy oil with all the classic ingredients of a Sichuan spicy oil, complete with a kick from the chilies and a numbing madness, it was definitely the way to get us all started on an excited note.

And with most Sichuan appetisers, the rest become variations and subsets of the same spices but provided with different platforms/textures to bring out different notes of spice.

Salivating Chicken

This is meant to make you salivate as the name suggests but sometimes, there may be so much numbness created that you may temporarily lose control over tongue and degenerate into a drool but fortunately, none of that occurred here but just the pleasurable sucking and slurping you are supposed to do when savouring wine.. no need to spit though.

Slices of Husband and Wife's lungs

Textures here are a little crunch, a little beefy meatiness...

Thinly sliced pork in a garlic based chili oil

Then a more pungent delivery through the fragrant garlic-laced oil, complementing the thinly sliced pork, allowing the flavours of the spices to come through without too much of a porky flavour.

Cucumbers tossed in a chili oil

Refreshing cool crunch from the cucumbers as temporary halfway house..

Steamed eggplant in mild spicy sauce

Sweetened with juicy eggplants in a comparatively mild sauce with a sweet finish..

Crunch pig ears in numbing oil

Then, a finale of crunch again this time from pig's ears, which are slightly gelatinous around a crunchy cartilage, given taste by the sauce only. One of my all-time faves.

Mandarin fish in boiling oil

The main courses started with the classic Sichuan dish of what it literally "boiling water cooked" Mandarin Fish. As you probably figured out, it's not really water but oil. And lots of it. There as a medium for cooking and not to be drunk (no it's not gravy). This allows for the fish to be just cooked without being overly so. The fish is sweet and succulent and good with a bowl of steamed rice.

Beef slices in boiling oil

Beef is the other popular choice for this dish and beef soaks up the spices and is therefore extremely flavourful. Sijie's renditions were competent but can't beat some of those I've had in China where the spices are more apparent than the oil.

Salt and pepper Shrimps Sichuan Style

Very well fried so you can crunch on the shells too. Extremely tasty and very good with the ice cold beer on offer..

Sauteed crab in Salted egg yolk

This was my favourite main dish of the evening. Every bit of the crab was generously coated with the fragrant salted egg yolk mixture and complemented the fresh crab very well. The priceless bits were the salted egg yolk over the crab roe. Cholesterol from hell but all things bad are good...

Deep fried chicken with dried chillies

This was well done too although the chicken bones were a little too bashed up and made eating a tad difficult since you need to be careful with splinters. Otherwise, step aside KFC Hot & Spicy...

Twice fried Long beans with minced pork

Tasty but a tad oily... although this dish rarely isn't. It is after all deep fried then stir fried to give it that creased but glistening look and extra crunchy texture.

Sauteed eggplant in sweet chili sauce

Good with a bowl of rice and a nice reprieve from all the heat.

Deep fried battered pork

This was tasty but unfortunately the meat was too tough and it just was a let down given the other goodies.

Mapo Tofu

I had the pleasure of taking this one home after "winning" the table spin prize. Too much ginger and garlic bits and detracted from what I usually prefer is the numbing chili goodness of the sauce.

Rice Crispies with a seafood sauce

Rice crispies are always fun to eat but this one was only an "ok" since the sauce wasn't very exciting. Can be missed.

Sweet Cooling Tea

Being what they call a "hot-based person" I downed 2 cans of this stuff through the night. Still didn't prevent a series of pimples from surfacing... oh well. It was good for the sugar anyway. Next time, I follow in Sijie's footsteps. She beat every hot blooded male in the room in a beer chugging competition at the end of her illustrious night in the hot kitchen. And you know what? She has flawless, poreless complexion despite her exposure to all that heat. The magic of beer...

All in all, an extremely fun night with foodie friends, eating and laughing the night away. Thanks to @g4gary for organising!

Shop 289, 2/F, Ko Wah Building
285-291 Lockhart Road
Wanchai灣仔駱克道285-291號高華大廈2樓289號舖
Tel: +852-2802 2250

Hong Kong - Fa Zu Jie 法租界

2011-08-08T00:32:00.000+08:00

Another day in Hong Kong, another private kitchen, if you can find it that is. Tucked in a non-descript building, inside an alleyway off D'Aguilar Street, expect to get it wrong the first time, and you'll be fine. All part of the adventure. Once you find and open the sign-less white door, enter into a swanky open kitchen area along one wall and tables on the other, set against a backdrop of a long side cupboard topped with opened wine bottles.

Menus are tucked into a little story book, so you look quite learned while poring through the menu. I saw the menu before I arrived so I pretty much knew what I was going to be eating, produce wise. But I was still pleasantly surprised by what was served. Just remember the tagline on the menu is "滬味兒裡賞洋風景" literally translated to mean that one should enjoy a western scenery from the Shanghai tastes within.

黑海。探險

Black Sea. Exploration.

First course - a chilled jelly made from the black vinegar that Shanghainese love to cook, drizzle or douse most of their food with. But this was the first time I've had it in gelatinous form. Given the acidity, it wakes the palate immediately and you want to be fed instantaneously. Sprinkled with what looks like crispy Japanese seaweed, it is actually freeze-dried Snow Vegetables, a Shanghainese household staple of preserved vegetables they use in stir fried or soup noodles typically.

吐司。上海調子

Toast. Shanghai Style.

Course 2 was another interesting take on Shanghainese staples. The use of 烤夫, which is made from fermented gluten and is typically braised in a dark and sweet soy with beans, bamboo shoots, etc. till the spongy texture absorbs all the taste from the gravy, then served chilled as an appetiser. Here, it is toasted, then in the foreground, slathered with a Snow Vegetable laced cream cheese, and the other in the background is a yummy eggplant puree. The cream cheese was a little odd, but oddly pleasant enough.

After appetisers, we were suitably excited about what was coming next and were recommended a well-chilled Gentil de Katz 2009 from Alsace. Crisp but easy to down, it did go pretty well with the food, and when we saw the bill much later, it was a very reasonable price to pay.

鵪鶉小姐。讚岐先生。蓮霧。杞子。都半醉了

Miss Quail. Mr. Sanuki. Wax Apple. Wolfberry.

All are Half Drunk.

This was easily the star of the evening. And from what I've seen they acknowledge it too and is almost a standard on all their menus, even if the other items change regularly. So simple, so classic yet so perfectly executed. Miss Quail was lightly braised to retain a touch of pink, leaving her succulent, juicy and had the right degree of gaminess to confirm you were eating quail but not as to make it overpowering. Mr. Sanuki (a Japanese udon) was perfectly al dente and soaked up the aged Huadiao wine broth very well. Wax apples were a nice touch of fresh and crisp while the wolfberries were plump and sweet.

穿上天婦羅的黃花

Yellow Croaker. Tempura Outfit.

There were 2 courses to this one. Shanghainese in the use of the yellow croaker, the first was a croaker liver wrapped in Perilla leaf, then tempura-ed. Excellent. Second was the croaker fillet also tempura-ed. Nothing western here but the Japanese influence was clear to see.

大蝦。糕

Sticky Prawn.

This was probably the most Shanghainese in cooking style although we were told that the chef got his inspiration from a shrimp based risotto he is used to making. Wherever the inspiration came from, it was good. Ironically, and as admitted by the host, the star is actually the Shanghainese glutinous rice cakes and not the shrimps themselves. All the essence from the shrimp heads culminated in a rich umami laden sauce that was utterly consumed by the rice cakes making each bite a burst of shrimpy goodness.

奶凍。東方調子

Panna Cotta. Oriental touch.

I thought this would be weird but it was actually very good. The use of a very good milk probably helped and the chef's French training came through in a panna cotta which was ultra smooth and fragrant. The use of Osmanthus kept him true to his Shanghainese roots and brought the meal home for us.

What the menu lacked in exotic goodies, was more than made up for by the chef's blend of creativity, marrying Shanghainese roots with French training, and most importantly, the ability to execute it as close to perfection under a tagline. Well worth a repeat visit. Thanks KM and WN for introducing us to this place!

1st Floor, 20A D’Aguilar Street
Central, Hong Kong
T: +852 3487 1715

Hong Kong - Mandy's Private Kitchen

2011-07-31T13:10:00.000+08:00

It's not just a dining experience, it's an excursion in itself. A recent Sunday excursion with some like minded foodies turned out to be so grand we ate for almost 6 hours.. But set against what is probably Hong Kong's most scenic district, you don't do yourself justice if you're just there to eat. Even in Hong Kong, where the food scene is so varied, you'd be hard pressed to find, let alone learn about Caribbean cuisine so it's a bonus when you meet Mandy and her husband, who've lived there and even have Trinidadian roots.

From my limited experience with food in that region, I did find a lot of Indian influence in what was served. And I suppose from a historical perspective, that shouldn't be a such a surprise. But the presence of Rum is probably what keeps it unique to that part of the world!

Rum Cooler

Step in from the summer heat and humidity, and Mandy offers you a Rum Cooler. Quite a reprieve, and makes you wish the beach was a lot closer so you can dip yourself both in rum and the sea at the same time... But Mandy's starters are a nice way to get the gastro juices churning...

Mango Salad

A deceptively mildly spicy and tangy mango salad is addictive and you only realise a little later when the heat kicks in, that it's all worth the pain. If not for what my Chinese physician warned about eating too many mangoes, I could have finished this one easily.

Chick Pea and Tomato Salad

I love Chick peas. Add anything and it'll still be good. This one was good from the sweet cherry tomatoes and fragrant from the spring onions and coriander generously interspersed within.

Pakoras

Here's the Caribbean/Indian answer to French Fries. Slightly healthier (I convince myself) from the use of gram flour, they are as addictive as french fries or even more so since the spices used give it a third dimension so you don't tire of it easily.

Home-Made Condiments

Mandy goes the whole hog and has a good variety of condiments she does herself. My favorite was the Scotch Bonnet pepper based one and the Mango and Raisin Chutney. Really quite out of this world.

Caribbean Corn and Honey Bread

There are many cultures out there that do corn bread as a staple of their diets. Mandy's version has a hint of sweet from the honey but is not overly cloying. It is less moist than the Western versions which tend to be a little bit more cakey so some might find this too crumbly. I liked the taste and perhaps might have preferred it a tad more moist but the upside is feeling a little more healthy eating this version. And it is even good after a few days if you warm it and spread a good butter across.

Breaded chicken breast

I'm no fan of chicken breast but this turned out better than I thought it would. The chicken was actually still quite moist but the winner was the batter it was coated in. A tasty version quite similar to the pop corn chicken KFC introduced some time ago, but of course this was made better with the Caribbean spices which spiked the batter.

Leg of Lamb

This was the piece de resistance by a long shot. So good I packed a fair bit with me to go (the only upside to 2 others not showing up)! According to Mandy, this was only marinated for 4 days instead of the usual 5, before being slow-cooked over a charcoal fire. That just makes me want to go back to try the real McCoy soon. I had fun with the packed lamb and even gave my colleagues something to enjoy by heating it up in the office microwave (much to the disgust of those who don't eat lamb..) and adding generous amounts of fresh mint for a real breakfast treat! No brushing required..

Fish Curry

I was totally distracted by the lamb and had little of everything else served afterwards. But I did remember the fish curry to be a twist to the usual types we have though. This was a tangy version and rather appetising. A refreshing change which Mandy claims she's still working on. It was already pretty good I thought.. such a perfectionist.

Spinach

This was my favourite after the lamb. I know it doesn't look like much but Mandy painstakingly takes off the stalks and only uses spinach leaves for this. It is way better than creamed spinach. This is pure spinach leaves stir fried with garlic until it is almost of puree consistency. And that's just how good it was. With little else, the combination of the 2, mixed with spring onions and coriander is just nature's garden at its best.

Pumpkin

Pumpkin was decent too but again I was too distracted at this point by the spinach and lamb given I had limited capacity left...

Coconut flavored rice

This was actually quite good, very similar to Nasi Lemak for people familiar with it in the South East Asia region. This is actually a much wetter version and is a tad heavy but it was actually quite good with the tangy fish curry.

Rum cake and fruit jello

By this time, we were already trying to keep from rolling on the floor from a big feast. But no feast is complete without dessert and Mandy's rum cake and a rum-laced fruit jello did the trick without sugar overload. If I didn't have to eat and run, I would have savored it with a good coffee. But I did leave happy though...

@deeseebeaucoup, thanks again for organising the awesome meal and it was a pleasure to have met @cheekyangelHK and @thefakefrog over cool chat and great food from @MandysPKitchen. Can't wait to do it again..

http://www.mandysprivatekitchen.com/
Tel: +852-98169946

Singapore - Inaho's Kitchen Bar

2011-07-23T22:54:00.000+08:00

It's technically not a hole in the wall, and it wasn't all that difficult to find, although if you Google it cold, you would find the number on the address changes. But I'm pretty sure it's "60" since it was on the even side of the street. Walk up the stairs but stop short of the top and look for a door on your right. Push it open and "voila!". Step into a cosy, dark wood interior, with a lovely bar counter helmed by a smiley Japanese lady. And believe me when I say this is where Japanese salary men come to seek solace and the comfort of the home-style dishes the lovely lady brings out. And from time to time, she obliges with a return toast of Sake or Shochu, whichever it is the weary customer orders..

The dishes here are not your fancy gourmet stuff of high end Japanese restaurants. It's a simple down-to-earth place where every dish is simply executed well. It's stuff that you would enjoy with a bit of alcohol while winding down after the 12 hours you put in at the office. Sodium levels are higher for balance but not uncomfortably so that even if you have something less potent, you won't wind up with your tongue hanging out for dear life at the end of the meal.

We ordered a variety of dishes from the different sections of the menu and were pleasantly surprised at how well each turned out. Wholesome simple goodness.

Stir fry of Pork and Kimchi

We put in the order for this only after she reassured us that this wasn't heat of the Korean variety. She was right. And what it turned out to be was a lovely dish combining the natural sweetness of the cabbage and thin slices of pork, then given a subtle kick from the Kimchi paste. No heat required.

Squid in Garlic Butter

Garlic and butter are simply meant to be together till the end of time. Even if you throw in rubber, it will also taste good. Fortunately for us, the fresh and bouncy squids lent its natural Umami into the combination making this really quite addictive. A must-do for lovers of the sole weapon against vampires.

Konnyaku with Sweet Miso

This was an interesting combo and surprisingly good with Sake. Konnyaku is tasteless but has supreme texture that is a crunchy gelatin. Oddly good since it takes on the flavor of anything it is infused or slathered with. Japanese eat it quite a bit for its supposedly nutritional qualities, and is high in fiber. Chewing on it allows you to savor the sweet Miso paste although you cannot have too much at a go since it is sweetly salty or saltily sweet, whichever way it falls on your taste buds. So have your Sake ready...

Grilled squid with Ponzu

Another tried and tested combination of squid and Ponzu (citrusy marinade) in this case carried by finely grated radish. Drizzled liberally with Japanese mayonaise, which is more eggy than the Western variety, it is a guilt-ridden trip to heaven...

Oden

Finishing with a satisfying Japanese classic of Oden. The variety of fish cakes and Konnyaku slice soaked up the sweetly rich fish broth, and made for a comforting finish. Even if you don't care for Oden much, you should try this one and see if you change your mind. You just might, since I did.

Thanks to D for introducing us to this little secret, even if the Japanese salary men may hate us for publicising their last spot of solace..

60A Duxton Road
Singapore
Tel: +65-9090 6948

Hong Kong - Xenri No Tsuki Japanese Cuisine 千里之月鮨旬菜

2011-07-17T13:01:00.000+08:00

In Hong Kong, it is almost as if some restaurants choose to be tucked away in commercial office space. Without being in the food business, I hazard to guess that the strategy is not commercially fail safe for a variety of reasons that are obvious. But for anyone in search of something different, this lends itself to the mystique of what one might find at the end of the journey. One would also hope that you don't leave with an anti-climax at least where the food is concerned.

Xenri No Tsuki (or Xenri from hereon) is one such cosy little place on one of the busiest little lanes in bustling Causeway Bay. The quiet you arrive at is a welcome reprieve from the chaos just 6 flights down and we happily accepted seating at the sushi counter to watch the chefs in action.

Kyoho Calpis Soda

I ordered a Kyoho Calpis Soda and took my time poring through the surprisingly long menu. Calpis Soda in itself is already a huge fave of mine in Japanese soda land, but add the drunken fragrant sweetness of Kyoho grapes, it's seventh heaven. Good thing it was a tall glass..

Peanut Tofu

Tuna Blood?

Sweet Julienned Radish

The amuse bouche was a trio of peanut tofu drizzled with pureed yam, coagulated Tuna's blood and the more commonly found sweet julienned radish with toasted sesame seeds. The tofu was excellent in texture but otherwise pretty bland. The Tuna's blood an interesting starter but other than being a little salty and a good Sake food, I didn't find it all too exciting.

House Special Tofu Salad

The house special tofu salad is one of those made-to-death-but-you-never-tire-of salads. And here the house-made tofu is wonderfully textured to give a very subtle bite allowing the fragrance of the yellow beans to come through as you chew. Drizzled with a lightly vinegared sesame dressing on a cold bed of Iceberg, a wonderful summer salad to cool from the heat and humidity outside.

Japanese Oyster

Succulent, juicy, sea-sweet with a fresh twist from the zesty lime wedge. Enough said.

Carpaccio of Amberjack

The sense of arrival of this one was dramatic. A beautiful plate to set the tone for an Italian-inspired Carpaccio of Amberjack. It was a tad heavily dressed by Japanese standards but the black truffle oil did not overpower. A little less oil would have been better to not overcoat the natural texture of the fish. The lime juice cooked the fish a little but only so as to allow an enjoyable transition between the cooked and raw bits.

Amberjack 2nd way

The other half of the Amberjack was grilled at my request to allow for some variety into the meal but if I had to choose all over again, I would just have all it in the carpaccio. The fish was on the dry side after grilling and lost a fair bit of its natural oils. A shame since it's really quite a good fish.

Sushi rice with Minced Toro and Uni

I have a thing for minced fatty tuna and/or sea urchin on sushi rice. It's a thing that's gone to unhealthy heights since I order it almost to the exclusion of everything else. Almost always blindsided if I see it on the menu but it's sort of made me discerning by default. So much so that I think that it's really quite a waste of time in most places. Not that it's bad but if the time-honored cliche of "it's all about the source and quality of the ingredients" is not fulfilled, it's can be most unsatisfying. This version was obviously fresh but the tuna and urchin are not the best grades, and as a result, there is little to no natural goodness coming through. The sushi rice was also not good enough to carry it home so mental note to self is just to order something else next time.

And there will be a next time: Xenri is a nice addition to the CWB repertoire. It's a comfy casual place to enjoy house specials and the service is a lot warmer than most places. Smiles all around and attention to detail, a big bonus that is a rarefied find these days. That in itself, is almost attraction enough.

6/F, Jardine Centre
50 Jardine's Bazaar
Causeway Bay
Tel: +852-2576 1880

Hong Kong - Bettys Kitschen

2011-07-10T01:10:00.001+08:00

So I finally made it to Alan Yau's latest addition some weeks ago, and did like the fresh twist he's given to the old Harlan's, which used to be in the same spot. It's a happy place to dine in and service from the time we walked in till we left was professionally friendly and un-intrusive. Their smiley-ness is a welcome change from the scowls we've almost gotten used to in Hong Kong.

Unfortunately the food for me was a little underwhelming. Perhaps it was what we ordered but perhaps the menu is just pretty limited and there didn't seem to be enough hints of what was good to order. While I can't say the food was bad, it was just blah and did not seem to match a decent looking menu and presentation.

Stuffed Crab Shell

A rather small serving of a stuffed crab shell which tasted of decently fresh crab meat but little else. The grilled lemon slice with a caramelly finish was a nice touch but did little to bring us to new heights.

Lobster Bisque

Serving the cream, croutons and cheese on the side was a nice touch but again the bisque was a tad thin and you didn't come away thinking that there was much lobster before the bisque. Too subtle for me.

Duck Fat Fries

These were decent but you had to eat them very quickly. Left for a while, they became flaccid too quickly. Tasty though.

Squid and Unpolished Rice

I had never eaten unpolished rice in a Western meal so this was out of the ordinary. But that was really it. Squids were nicely cooked and the Chorizo bits were wonderful but the rice didn't really do it for me. I almost never say this but this had way too much bite.

The dessert with the warm chocolate centre

Dessert was competent even though this one has been done to death. We only ordered it because it came recommended.

Our choices may not have done the place justice, and I might pop in again if I'm in the vicinity. Am not sure that I would specially make it a point to visit. Would have been nice to add it to my IFC repertoire. Ah well.. hopefully it makes it there a second time round.

Shop 2075, Podium Level Two

International Finance Centre Mall

8 Finance Street, Central

Tel: +852-2979 2100

Hong Kong - Saint-Germain

2011-06-26T13:38:00.000+08:00

Happy Valley welcomes yet another new kid on the block. This time, a casual French bistro that took over from a pub that used to sit a stone's throw from the electric tram depot. For Happy Valley residents, this adds to the ever increasing and changing repertoire of the food scene in the village, so it's a thumbs up!

I've been there twice since opening, and while I'm not a fan yet, I like the fact that it's in the hood, and provides easy access to a cuisine that's not done anywhere else in the village yet. The food is decent enough and it's quite a nice place to hang out over casual food and wine (although the last time I was there they hadn't gotten their liquor licence as yet, but you can BYO). The menu is smallish, although not untypical of bistro menus, so unless you're a creature of habit, you can't go too often.

Summer Truffle Risotto with Beef Jus

This is a pretty yummy way to start a meal here. If you like the aroma of truffles and the robustness of the essence of beef, you will like this. There is nothing else except rice and shavings but you feel like there's a lot more ingredients present because the goodness of what's named has been reduced to and infused into a mound of rice with bite. On my first visit, the rice was a tad uncooked (and I like bite) but no problems on the second.

Home-made Foie Gras Terrine

This was good too. Great creamy texture and enough livery goodness. The richness of the generous slab is balanced with a variety of condiments - balsamic vinegar, sea salt and fresh ground pepper, apricot compote, and a little Arugula. Coupled with country bread, another easy winner.

Crab Salad

Less of a Wow! but great for the summer is the crab salad with wedges of citrus - orange and pink grapefruit.

Grilled Seabass with Risotto

Taste wise, this was good, but a big letdown was the fact that the Seabass was overcooked. Hate that especially since this was not the Chilean variety, making the cottony flesh a tad rough on the palate. The deep fried risotto balls were fun to eat and quite yummy when rolled around in the foam.

Grilled chicken breast with Cannelloni

Not a fan of breast meat, but this was pretty decent. But I liked the Cannelloni stuffed with Ricotta a lot more. The skin of the Cannelloni was crispy and balanced the creamy Ricotta within. The sauce was tasty and so overall, a satisfying dish. But again, I ain't no breast fan so this wouldn't be a first choice for me here.

Finally, a French place isn't a French place if their desserts cannot pass muster.

Chocolate Cake

Chocolate cake was actually pretty good. Well moist, and not too sweet, given freshness from the real vanilla bean ice cream.

Apple Tart

But the dessert winner is the apple tart. Very French, very good. It sat in the oven 10 seconds too long but there are those of us who like it on the cusp of a burn (a deep golden brown). Very crisp, full of apple goodness, and just yummy.

In all, a nice welcome change to the food scene in Happy Valley. Hopefully they keep improving on the good work, and that they manage to change the apparently not-so-ideal feng shui in that location, considering the many shop owners who have changed hands over the years. On my next visit, I look forward to trying their beef dishes and duck fat fries. Yeah..

G/F, 1A Wong Nai Chung Rd
Happy Valley
Tel: +852 2836-6131

Hong Kong - Rakuen 樂宴

2011-06-12T21:37:00.000+08:00

At the risk of incurring the wrath of @e_ting, I am sharing a little gem of a find in Causeway Bay, for those who enjoy an Izakaya style evening, with a comprehensive stock of Sake and other Japanese alcoholic fixes, and decent Okinawan food.

As I said, there is a lot of Sake to choose from...

...In bottles

...In Urns

Then, there are staple snacks from the lovely island of Okinawa.

Peanut Tofu

Unlike the usual tofu texture, this has a chewy bite to it. This allows the peanutty-ness to come through and is rather quite fragrant. The spring onions and grated ginger in soy allows a little reprieve from the richness of the peanuts although really quite unnecessary. Keeps it interesting though. Nice way to start any Okinawan meal, especially since it is served chilled.

Beef Croquette

This was my fave of the evening. So I'm a sucker for anything deep fried in fluffy panko (bread crumbs) but this was really quite good. The juicy mixed beef contents just made it that much better.

Bittergourd Tempura

This is a winner for anyone selling the concept of downing alcohol at its establishment. You'd need quite a few drinks to finish this since the salt content here is very high. But it is an interesting way to serve bittergourd (another Okinawan favorite vegetable) and it is battered and fried to a dry crisp, with negligible traces of oil on the paper it's served on.

Akin to Snapper!

Don't usually order sashimi at drinking places but this one came highly recommended, and was really quite good. Naturally sweet although it was quite a big fish for just 2 people.

"Snapper" Soup

Of course, the second course of serving up a soup made from the bones and fins of the soup was a nice way to finish the meal.

Cool place to relax the evening away if what you want are high quality snacks with your Sake. No wonder @e_ting wants to try and keep this a secret.

12/F, 28 Tung Lung Street
Causeway Bay
Tel: +852-3580 8858

Hong Kong - Tai Wing Wah Village Cuisine 大榮華圍村菜

2011-06-06T00:01:00.000+08:00

Once in a while, we crave the old. Most of us are suckers for nostalgia. Or perhaps I shouldn't generalize. I am a sucker for nostalgia. While I can't be stuck in time, I like traveling backwards, once in a while, to a time that once was.. when life was simpler, unfussy, innocent, and you get the point.

豬油撈飯 Rice drizzled with lard

It wasn't so long ago that many of our families were still living close to or below the poverty line. During that time, meat was not an everyday occurrence at the dinner table, and often times, people resorted to using pork lard as a fragrant drizzle over a steaming bowl of rice, made savory with soy. A simple indulgence which kept us warm through cold winters. Tai Wing Wah brings this bowl of simple goodness back with decent quality liquid lard and soy. They also use a good grain, keeping each separate and distinct, but not hard. The combination was sinfully good.

To be honest, the rest of the grub isn't going to blow you away. But hey, it is good ole fashioned stuff that is going to bring back vivid memories of the way we were.

脆鱔 Crispy Eel

Yup, crispy. Couldn't necessarily tell it was eel, except that it's a little crunchier than most fishies. Good with a cold beer.

南乳蓮藕扣肉 Fermented Tofu braised with lotus root and belly pork

Of course, you could have bowls and bowls of rice with this one! Sucker for fermented tofu. For those unfamiliar with this, do NOT confuse this with stinky tofu. This one has a sweet alcoholic fragrance to it.

蓮藕片 Stir Fried Lotus Roots

A nice way to have lotus root. Crunchy, juicy and tasty from a good sauce which lightly stains it.

黃金蝦 Dry Fried Shrimps Stained with Salted Egg Yolk

This one is always sinful but good. It's easy to forget the piles of cholesterol you can pick up with this one when the fragrance of a sea shrimp intermingled with a salty eggy-ness is delivered via a crispy texture.

馬拉糕 Steamed Malay Cake

This is one of the more famous versions in Hong Kong. And it is good. Fluffy, not too sweet and of course, the aroma of the lard that went into kneading the flour with...

奶黃水晶包 Steamed Crystal Dumplings with Custard

This was interesting but ordinary. Custard was ok in taste although a tad clumpy. I take the Malay cake over this one any time.

If you miss the good old days, this is a quick fix. Just make sure you have enough people with you to reminisce.

2/F Chevalier Centre
8 Wan Hoi Road
Kowloon Bay
Tel: +852-2148 7773

Singapore - Caffe B

2011-05-28T13:33:00.000+08:00

I finally stepped into the behemoth structure known now as Marina Bay Sands. Not without being first unimpressed by parking facilities though. The fact that there is insufficient parking underground in a facility of this size is just bewildering. And it didn't even seem like a night where much was going on, except the much touted show, The Lion King. And the fact that you have to pay double ERP charges over a 100 meter stretch to double back to parking beyond the worker dormitories just made the driving experience there frustrating to say the least. Good thing I wasn't at the wheel..

The inside of the mall is massive, and thanks to the young man at concierge who could not discern left from right, we ended up taking a tour of the mall, or was that on purpose??

Caffe B's restaurant entrance is in the basement, a little odd but I guess that's to make room for their bar at promenade level which overlooks the water out to where the Fullerton Hotel is, which I have to admit is rather pretty. Service was very professional and efficient with our waiter refilling our water glasses ever so often, and the serving staff dropping a "bon appetit" when each course is served. Professional but stoic and impassioned - they seem to be low in energy, and overworked...

The food was decent and competent but really nothing to write home about. The Japanese chef ensured there were spots of the crossover coming through but overall, it wasn't spectacular.

Bread for the table

Fluffy bread although toasting it made it crumbly and not the chewy kind I like. But decent and went well with the quality olive oil and balsamic.

To start, we had the Caffe B Antipasto Selection to save us the trouble of choosing an appetiser. And we thought it would be a good representation of what they have to offer since it was our first time.

Wagyu Beef Carpaccio

Starting with the carpaccio, this was actually a pretty good slice of beef. Although thin, it was very beefy and melts in the mouth. The use of an onion aioli was an interesting deviation from the norm and for those who like onions, they will like this, but I thought it might have stolen a bit of thunder from the beef itself.

Millefeuille Eggplant

This was deceptively blah looking but turned out to be quite tasty. A stack of thinly sliced eggplant infused with what we thought was bits of eel or fish of some sort was good. Topped off with a little raw fish in soy marinade, the bite-sized portion was a burst of different flavours and textures.

Iberico Ham

Interestingly, for an Italian place, the Chef decides to use Spanish Iberico. Though a tad salty, each piece went well with the 3 different fruit of melon, kiwi and grape in each roll-up. And balanced off with a good piece of Parmiggiano Reggiano.

Stuffed Tomatoes

This was a bit blah for me. One was stuffed with a Ratatouille - not my favouritest way to do vegetables. The other was a crab meat mayo - tasty enough.

Spaghetti with Iberico Ham in Tomato Herb Sauce

Going into the main event, the spaghetti was very well done - good quality pasta with bite and stained appropriately with a pretty robust tomato based sauce. The use of Rosemary was a little overpowering but acceptably so since the Iberico was man-enough to match it.

Fish of the Day in Clams and Mussels Broth

Catch of the day was Garouper. Interesting since it's more associated with Chinese style steamed fish dishes, but it went pretty well since I do like Garouper anyway. The sweet, cottony flesh was fairly good in taking up the broth made with our shellfish friends. White wine and butter made the broth a little more rounded but not greasy. Would have drunk a few more spoonfuls if it wasn't a tad salty. The shellfish was fresh but not ultra so since they didn't come off the shells so easily and were overcooked. But one can overlook it since the main event was the fish, and there was a lot of it even between 2.

Gelato

To end, 3 ginormous scoops of ice cream. Each scoop was the equivalent of about one and a half normal scoops, so even between 2 people it was a bit much, after a 3 course meal. The vanilla and sesame were ok but I really digged the green tea one since the Matcha came through very well, with a hint of what I think is honey. Sign of the Japanese chef's roots coming through.

The overall experience at Caffe B was enjoyable enough although it won't be one of the places people rave about. Perhaps a pit stop for ladies who shop and do lunch.

The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands
2 Bayfront Avenue
B1-15 or 01-83
Tel: +65-68873311

Hong Kong - Sun Tung Lok Chinese Cuisine 新同樂魚翅酒家

2011-05-23T00:07:00.001+08:00

Finally hit the highly touted newest 3-star Michelin Chinese restaurant in the latest version of the Hong Kong/Macau guide. Oddly located in a mass-market mall in TST, decor was comfy, and reminiscent of a brighter T'ang Court. Comfy chairs and tables that aren't too close to each other like in most Chinese restaurants. Service was efficient and professional even if impersonal. And the food?

生磨杏仁露 Fresh-ground Almond Broth

It's not often I start a review with dessert. But this was actually the star of the show. Possibly the best bowl of almond broth I've ever had in my entire life, and believe me I've had quite a few since it's my default dessert of choice. The quality of the almonds used was undeniably high. And just like all good Chinese restaurants, dessert was prepared table-side. And as the broth heats up, the aroma of the almonds fills the room. The broth itself was extremely smooth, and with none of that chalky taste of lesser versions. Pleasantly sweet but not cloying, it made for a nice finish to an unspectacular lunch.

梅菜扣肉包 or Stewed Belly Pork with Preserved Vegetables

This is a classic dim sum special. I do love 梅菜扣肉 or belly pork stewed with preserved vegetables Hakka style. So I never pass up on an opportunity to eat it, not even if it's just one serving slipped into a steamed bun. Taste was pretty authentic, although I would have been happier with a smoother piece of pork. This was a tad dry, and the separation of the fat from the meat too distinct.

鵝肝芋角 Yam Pastry with Goose liver

As far as dim sum went, this was by far their best performance of the meal. A smooth yam paste with a piece of liver enveloped in a fluffy pastry and deep fried without a trace of oil. So important especially since it could have gone really wrong and turned out a be a whole grease bag. Deserving of applause here.

鮑魚批 Abalone Pies

Decent but nothing to write home about. Bits of abalone visible on the inside but without much abalone taste. Pastry was mediocre so overall, it made for a forgettable course.

鮑汁鵝掌意粉 Linguini with Goose Web in Abalone Sauce

This was by far the biggest disappointment. The goose webs were tasty enough but for some reason the noodles were as tasteless as tasteless can be. I think their choice of a linguini was flawed since it could not pick up the supposedly abalone-based sauce. So I ate the goose web and left the noodles. And split by 4 people, I was surprised we barely got one goose web each...

黃橋燒餅 Northern Style Yellow Bridge Meat Pasties

These pastries weren't bad but by no means the best. Even Victoria City's version was comparable if not better.

My conclusion: Sun Tung Lok is probably just not a yum cha place. Perhaps I gotta do the un-PC thing and just have their sharks' fin and suckling pig dishes. Maybe I might agree with the 3-star rating then. Otherwise, it's just a very comfy place to have above average Cantonese food.

Shop 4D, Miramar Shopping Centre
132 Nathan Road
Tsim Sha Tsui
Tel: +852-2152 1417

Hong Kong - Sing Kee Seafood Restaurant 勝記海鮮酒家

2011-05-21T17:21:00.000+08:00

For city folks, it's not often that you get a chance to get out to the New Territories to enjoy a touch of nature and eat by the water. Saikung isn't far from the madding crowds since it's become such a popular weekend destination for local families, especially those with dogs. I swear there are more canines than humans walking on the Saikung promenade.

Of course, Saikung also promises some of the best hiking trails in the territory, and of varying levels of difficulty so there's something for everyone. You can also take the boat to Kau Sai Chau for a game of golf on the 2 scenic courses a mere 10 minutes away on the water, if you can secure a booking, that is.

Late risers that we are, and it being Easter Monday, gorgeous sunshine beating down with a subtle breeze, it was a brilliant top-down drive day and perfect for a late and lazy seafood lunch and stroll (perhaps dodge since the crowds were out in full force).

View from sitting outside of Sing Kee

All these years, I've only tried the crowded restaurants along the promenade and was no longer impressed after the first experience more than 10 years ago. This time, we decided on the far end of the promenade, supposedly where Sai Kung's promenade should have started decades ago. Sing Kee looks out onto boats docked in what looks like a makeshift marina, but it is all rustic and set the backdrop for a lovely al fresco experience.

白灼蝦 or quick blanched Prawns

This is almost the quintessential starter to any seafood meal in Hong Kong. It may look boring (and it is if executed poorly or if prawns are not as fresh as they should be) but Sing Kee's version was actually very good. The meat of the prawns left the shells with one flick (sign of ultra freshness) and the quick blanch did not age the meat, retaining a fresh, natural sea-sweetness that was very enjoyable. So good that it was easy to forget the usual soy dip that accompanies the dish.

豉椒聖子 or Steamed Bamboo Clams with Black Bean Sauce

Again, the clam was very fresh and cooked to the perfect point that is crunchy without being chewy. The sauce was very tasty although the consistency was a touch heavy.

椒鹽鮮鮑 or Salt/Pepper Baked Abalones

This was the favorite of the afternoon. A huge dilemma whether to stuff ourselves with more than 2 each. Any fears that the abalone would be tough was quickly put to rest. Our teeth sank into a crunchy, sweet sucker from Dalian, China, that had layered on textures of tasty crispiness from the deep fried bread crumbs laced with salt and pepper. So easy to pop into the mouth, chew and savor. This alone, would be good reason enough to visit again.

豉油皇炒麵 or Dry fried egg noodles with Premium Soy

To finish, one of my favorite Hong Kong carbo dishes. This is definitely all about execution. Sing Kee's version was tasty but paled in comparison to Yuet Wah Hui in Causeway Bay. It was definitely tasty, with hints of the smoky wok it was in, but a tad greasy. Perfection should leave the base of the serving plate dry, and only slightly stained from the dark soy. Still enjoyable though, just had to leave the base layer untouched.

Original Flava with Mochis and Cookie Crumbs

And in the spirit of the froyo movement, we went to Mr. Froyo to pick up dessert. Original flavour with toppings of mochi balls coated in sawdust, and cookie crumbs. Not bad, but not as good as Yogo. Still made for a sweet ending to a relaxing afternoon. Perhaps next time, we might think about doing the hiking thing first before stuffing our faces...

Sing Kee
G/F, 33-39
Sai Kung Tai Street
Sai Kung
Tel: +852-2791 9887

Mr. Froyo
Shop 65, Sai Kung Villa
Fuk Man Road
Sai Kung
Tel: +852-2388 7848

Hong Kong - Kenjo 見城日本料理

2011-05-21T01:17:00.001+08:00

Teacup with Kenjo san's caricature

It's an old name on the Sushi scene in Hong Kong. And it still commands a crowd. Despite the recent backlash on Japanese restaurants from the earthquake and resulting radiation disaster in Japan, the Kenjo name doesn't seem to have suffered. And the jolly ole Sushi chef is still a friendly personality to have moulding your rice into perfect mounds in front of you. Unfortunately, he didn't do all of our courses, and our overly serious chef wasn't up to Kenjo san's standard. Still decent nevertheless.

Sashimi was decent and fresh but not spectacular. Hana Sakazuki wins there. The Baby Tuna was good though, and very pretty....

Baby Tuna

But when it comes to Sushi, Kenjo is by far the most enjoyable. It really is the rice... The consistency of each mound of rice, deftly moulded into the same shape for each and every piece, well balanced in stickiness and acidity, complemented each piece of fish, crustacean or shellfish perfectly.

Here are some memorable pieces:

Mackeral

Seared Tuna Cheek

Sea Urchin

Grilled Sea Eel

Edge of Scallop Muscle

Botan Shrimp

Yellow Tail

Cooked food wasn't too bad also, and it's always nice to have a break between all the raw so you enjoy it that much more. Some might say it detracts from the palate but I have a short attention span, and really don't think the intermission counts against much except to bring a pleasant change. And all the gurus say, Change is Good.

Grilled Squid with Roe

This was by far the most spectacularly executed grilled squid I've had in a long while, and carefully done to leave all the creamy roe intact, this was something to savor slowly, especially with a cold Sake. I can almost still taste the memory.. Sauce was also very good. Sticky enough to cling but not overly gooey nor sweet, as with some lesser places. Brilliant piece of work.

When we started the meal, we were asked if we chose Sashimi or Sushi, and unbeknownst to us, the pricing is based on course rather than amount consumed. So although we chose to have more variety but less pieces, and mix the 2, we were whacked hard without concession. However, I am told that if you just choose the Sushi, it's a very reasonable price. And seriously, that's really what Kenjo is famous for, and at that quality, quite a steal to eat for dinner. Strategy for next visit done.

G/F, 30 Minden Ave
Tsim Sha Tsui
Tel: +852-2369 8307

Singapore - Oversea Restaurant

2011-05-15T01:37:00.002+08:00

Make no mistake, this is not Cantonese food. This is Malaysian Chinese food (of which Cantonese forms a sub-group), cooked the way that a mere 3 to 4 generations ago, was the stuff of weekend family dinners, weddings and other happy occasions. But it is sanitized, in a good way. This is a lot less greasy than it used to be. Still tasty and more importantly, delivers the distinct nostalgia we've been craving.

And Oversea has delivered it right to the shores of Singapore. While I've not tried their original shop in Kuala Lumpur, fans rave about that one and that the one in Singapore is a lesser cousin. But little to nothing takes me to KL, so who's complaining?

Char Siu or Honey glazed roast pork

This is their piece de resistance. This is what the kind person who takes your reservations on the phone will remind you to reserve. They don't seem to be able to make enough of this. Unlike the Hong Kong versions, this is sweeter, more caramelly in taste, with edges roasted till it's charcoal fragrant and crisp. A delightful way to start especially since it's served warm.

Siu Yoke or Roast belly pork with crackling

While some rave about this also, I was less than impressed. If you're used to having this in every other Cantonese restaurant in Hong Kong, Oversea's version is a tougher cut, with disproportionate ratios of meat to fat, and the crackling was not as crisp or aromatic as it should have been.

Double boiled chicken soup with Abalone

This was much tastier than it looked. The clarity is not to be mistaken for bland. The soup was flavorful from the chicken and abalone but surprisingly the chicken was still tender to the bite.

Scrambled eggs with fish maw

This was another winner for me. Eggs were well scrambled in a style reminiscent of the old days, when banquets offering a cold dish combo platter used to have this as one of the items. Fish maw is used in place of politically incorrect sharks' fin but there was no detraction from taste. Great with the lettuce leaves that are served together as receptacles for the eggs.

Steamed Tofu with dried shrimps and soy

Home-style tofu, period. A good quality soy that was slightly sweet made for a good sauce. Otherwise ordinary, since it is a piece of cake to reproduce this at home, especially since the imprinted edges suggested that all you have to do is lift it out of the box in which it was packed.

Eggplant and fish cake in claypot

This was just plain tasty and perfect to down a bowl of steamed rice with. The addition of little rounds of fish cake was an interesting twist to the classic version but the bouncy pieces made for an interesting crunch to the dish.

Tofu with Shrimps

We lamented the use of such big prawns in this dish since they were tasteless and failed to impress as a result. The sauce was created from shrimp roe, and a fair bit of it at that, but lacked a shrimpy robustness about it. A far cry from Joo Heng's version. The only element which won here were the tofu pieces. Very smooth, and encased in what tasted like an egg-based casing, that was well deep fried.

Steamed Patin (Catfish) with minced ginger

This is a great fish to eat, if you like fatty fishes. The Omega 3 content is probably sky high and makes for an easy fish to steam since you don't have to worry about overcooking it. The only unfortunate part of execution was that all you can taste is the ginger. Granted, if you like ginger, you will love this. However, I'm not a huge fan, and would have preferred a little more fish to come through.

Stir fried Kailan in ginger and chinese wine

Vegetables used were good quality. A teenage Kailan that made for perfect crunch and sweetness where florets meet leaves. A light ginger and Huadiao wine sauce enhanced.

Chilled honeyed sea coconut and longans

Dessert was quite blah. It was refreshing, but again something you can create out of a couple of cans of honeyed sea coconut and longans. The lemon wedge was the twist that cut through the cloying canned syrups.

While some comment that Oversea is pricey for what it is, and they're not far off, but in this day, where this style of food preparation is few and far between in Singapore, it is probably still a steal since it's all about instant gratification and not having to speed down the North-South highway for 3 hours to get the same thing for less.

100 Beach Road
#01-27
Shaw Leisure Gallery
Shaw Towers
Tel: +65-6294 2638

Singapore - Capricci

2011-05-06T23:49:00.000+08:00

It's never fair to overly judge a first visit. Given the crowd, there must be a variety of reasons why the restaurant commands the clientele. Tonight, I wasn't impressed however. Hopefully, we just caught them on a bad night.

The ambience of the place is as it was when Oso occupied this space, just darker. Lighting was very low at our table in fact (which explains the quality of the photos) so quite few tables of love-birds surrounding us. However, I'm sure they were lamenting the table of 20 women celebrating a birthday just across from us. 20 of any specimen is not going to be quiet affair. I was also in the direct line of fire, having been shot by a professional photographer's flash about 100 times. If these could make holes, I would have bled to death in about 15 minutes flat. I digress however, since a restaurant can't really control the patronage.

We shortlisted off the host's recommendations, our only instruction to her being "If you would like us to come back, what would you suggest?"

Burrata Caprese Style with Cherry Tomato and Salad

I enjoy the milkiness of Burrata and its chewy texture, without being overly rich. Served Caprese, it is outstanding as an appetiser, waking up the palate with a garden freshness, and with any acidity well balanced by the cheese. That's the theory. The execution here didn't match up. A first bite and both of us knew something was not right with the dressing. The oil and vinegar combination was a lot heavier than usual, but unlike the richness of aged Balsamic. This was tart yet greasy, and tasted almost like it was a tad "off". Worried, we decided to send it back. Service was impeccable here since our friendly host gladly took it back and the chef served up a new version with a light drizzle of just fresher extra virgin olive oil. Much closer to theory.

John Dee Grass Fed Beef Tenderloin Tartare with Truffle Oil, Shaved Parmesan and Arugula

Our other appetiser of the beef tartare was enjoyable. Good produce, although I strained unsuccessfully to get a whiff nor hint of the truffle oil. Still enjoyable since this was real Arugula, and not the tasteless variety commonly sold in supermarkets here, that's all heat and nothing else. Any concern we had from the waiter who asked if we wanted our beef tartare rare, medium or well done, was laid to rest. The awkwardness of pondering his question merely made for a laugh afterward.

Paccheri with Homemade Italian Sausage, Porcini Mushroom and Parmesan Cream Sauce

There is a fine line between al dente and undercooked. Unfortunately, this one stood on the side of the latter. Sauce was passably tasty although really nothing you couldn't do at home. The sausage by itself was decent though and scored extra marks for being just right on the sodium counter.

Sous-vide Cod Fish Fillet Drenched in a sauce of seafood, anchovies, and cream topped with crispy corn

This one sounded a lot better on the menu that it tasted. It wasn't bad at all but it just didn't taste sous-vide. It tasted like cod generally tastes, sitting in a quarter bowl of soup that apart from the description on the menu, you would not have had an easy time deciphering the seafood content nor the anchovies. I love corn but somehow it was odd combination. This is almost reminiscent of going home, rummaging through the fridge and putting whatever is in there into a one-dish meal. Probably OK for the home, but to pay restaurant prices for this is questionable.

So perhaps we made the wrong shortlist off our friendly host's recommendations. We didn't try the other yummy sounding spinach souffle, nor the braised lamb shank. Oh well, if someone else invited me, I may do that. I'm just unsure at this time whether I would pick up the phone and make a reservation again soon. A pity since the service was really quite good - friendly, professional but without being intrusive. A gem anywhere these days, really.

27 Tanjong Pagar Road
Tel: +65-62216761

Macau - Restaurante Espaco Lisboa 里斯本地帶餐廳

2011-05-02T14:20:00.000+08:00

This was easily our best meal in Macau on this trip. It was a trudge, and if you know the taxi situation in Macau, you know the exponential factor that adds. But thankfully, we were in the Cotai area, and the taxi line at the Venetian moved very quickly. It is about 15 minutes to Coloane from Cotai, where Espaco is located, and the drive would have been scenic if it hadn't been sundown already. I think we passed a penitentiary facility. It's fascinating that such facilities are in some of the best spots in the world. Guess it makes it difficult for escapes, although the rest of us are always trying to escape to such spots all the time for vacation! The irony of life.

The restaurant is set in a short row of what looked to be 2-storey residences inside a quaint little lane. It's not far from the water although I don't think you can see it from the restaurant. We didn't opt for the balcony seating and chose the ground floor area, which is a cosy and homey little area with a cute bar area that also houses the dessert fridge and the cashier. The picture is deceptively deserted since shortly after, even the ground floor area filled up and the noise levels went up many decibels when the large table got filled up with a loud and noisy group.

Olives

We sat down and started demolishing the little pot of olives at the table. Well preserved to be tasty but still crunchy, this had little salt but retained the full flavor of the olives. So good it needed no alcoholic accompaniment. My ginger ale was good enough.

Clams in a white wine sauce

This one took us unawares. We like our clams and in a white wine sauce, we like them even more. But this white wine sauce was so good we used whatever bread we had to soak up every drop after we were said and done with the fresh bouncy clams. The use of butter in the sauce made it that much more robust, but not reaching the point of greasy creaminess so that less would have been more. The juice from the lemon wedge cut through the richness to make it easily addictive. So, we were craving for more and would have tipped the pot into our mouths if the restaurant were indeed deserted. Too bad Ms Manners was looking.

Duck Rice

According to the friendly owner, this is their piece de resistance. A casserole of shredded duck covered with rice and baked in the oven topped with bacon and Chorizo sausage. So simple yet so good.

Duck rice - deconstructed

We mixed it up to reveal the shredded duck buried in the rice. Morsels of duck, rice, and bits of bacon/Chorizo made for mouthfuls of tasty decadence. Forget that this was not healthy dish, with the different fats from the different meats, but that was precisely why there is so much flavor in its simplicity. And the bits of rice which came into direct contact from the oven's heat had become crisp and added the lovely snap, crackle, and pop we all look forward to in any baked rice dish.

Grilled Sardines

To up our Omega 3 count after the duck rice, we thought grilled sardines would do the trick. The owner warned us that since sardines are not readily available in Macau, they ship theirs in from Portugal frozen. But they were still good. Tasty with a touch more bittersweet as you approach the belly, the type of flavors you would enjoy if you enjoy Mackeral. However, this is not for those who don't enjoy their fish since there are a lot of bones to maneuver through. The trick is to debone before you start to eat. If you can take out the centre bone slowly and leave the attaching "rib cage" area intact, you save yourself a lot of headache later. Simple dish served with grilled green peppers and a boiled potato and a wedge of lemon for a twist of tang. Provincially good.

Sawdust Pudding

This one got us "good". I've had many disappointments with this one, but since the food had been so wonderful, I thought how bad can dessert be. But it's just me. I just don't get this one. I don't get the attraction of layering sawdust over cream. I dislike each and even if happily married, I still dislike them as a unit. So there. My only regret is not having gone for the egg pudding. And I would regret it till my next visit.

I would visit again. It was worth the trudge. Coloane does seem like a lovely area and perhaps a lunch visit next time, with a walkabout would do the trick. Apparently Lord Stow's Bakery (the original) is right on that same row.

G/F & 1/F, 8 R. das Gaivotas
Coloane Downtown

路環市區水鴨街8號地下及1樓
Tel: +853-2888 2226

Macau - Shing Kee 盛記白粥

2011-05-01T23:36:00.000+08:00

One of the luxuries of being on vacation is having the time to enjoy breakfast. Even better if it's a breakfast you don't often get to enjoy. And even better is because you've had a lie-in, there's no breakfast rush, since everyone else is having lunch.

Shing Kee is one of those places that is a throwback to the good old days when breakfast meant having the traditional goodies. No juice, fruit, yogurt or coffee. And the slight wait outside the shop at 2pm in the afternoon is testament that people still hanker for that bit of nostalgia.

Congee 白粥

As the name suggests, people come here to have a warm bowl of congee to start the day. Chinese believe this magical bowl of gruel cleanses and detoxes the digestive system. A Chinese physician I used to see recommended that I have this every morning. Unfortunately, I haven't found a life partner to satisfy all my material needs to be able to wake up to a steaming bowl of congee every morning without having to worry about rushing to work.

This version is really almost reduced to 98% fluid, with bits of rice grain you might break down without any chewing. The fluid has hints of Fu Chok (腐竹), bean curd sheets which they throw into the pot to cook the congee with to give it a distinct yellow hue and flavor.

Steamed radish cake and fish dumpling 燒賣糕

Of course, the Chinese physician also said to avoid other tasty condiments when consuming congee but when on vacation, nobody remembers what the doctor says. The radish cake was very soft and tasty. A touch of heat from white pepper within. The steamed dumpling is not the usual one we find at dim sum restaurants but is one that is stuffed with minced Dace and bouncier than most.

Steamed rice rolls 腸粉

The rice rolls had decent sauces (combo of sweet, peanut and chili) over making it pretty tasty but the rolls themselves weren't great. A little too much of a rice flour aftertaste and not soft enough.

But, this place is all about the nostalgia. Nothing to it. The food isn't spectacular but just good old-fashioned brekkie items we used to wake up to as kids. Yes, the good old days..

77A Avenida do Ouvidor Arriaga R/C
Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro
新馬路蘇雅利醫生街1號
Tel: +853-2892 2901

Macau - Restaurante Vinha 葡萄園餐廳

2011-04-30T00:16:00.001+08:00

It was a little deserted when we got there although all 4 window tables were taken but the restaurant quickly got its buzz (read noisy) when 2 large groups arrived. Cosy joint set in decor that was easily from the early 80s. Even the captain and his friendly wait staff in their tablecloth pink outfits could have been from the 80s.

Sangria by the glass

Settling down to a Sangria and shaking off the rain that was beating hard outside, we quickly got down to ordering and chewing on the warm buns that Macau is famous for. Baked to a raw crisp on the outside and chewy on the inside. Good with a dollop of butter.

Potato and Vegetable Soup

This soup is quintessentially Portuguese. It's not fancy by any means, but there is something about a potato based soup that's sturdy, protective and just downright homey. The greens provide the much needed fibre.

Stir fried cabbage with Bacalhau

This is probably more Macanese than Portuguese with the use of Chinese cabbage. The use of the dried salted cod pieces give this all the flavor since there is little else.

Crispy Suckling Pig on Fried Rice

This was the only reason we came. I saw a picture of this and said I definitely want to try this. Nothing complicated about this dish. Simply well grilled suckling pig, sealed by a crispy crackling (although some bits were slightly chewy) but the meat was tender, and fell off the bone easily. The bed of fried rice was tasty although it wasn't as good as some of the ones that you get around Macau, my most memorable having been from Litoral during my last visit in 2008.

This isn't the best restaurant in Macau. But it was a good fix for a quick dinner the first night we got there. Especially since this was about 5th on my list - the first 4 including Litoral was fully booked. Shouldn't have been a surprise since it was the start of the Easter weekend.

Decent, competent and wholesome food that was reasonably priced. Not a combination you find too often these days.

G/F, 1/F, 393 Edf. Dynasty Plaza R/C
Alameda Dutor Carlos d'Assumpção
宋玉生廣場(皇朝)393號地下和一樓
Tel: +853-2875 2599

Easter in Macau

2011-04-25T23:44:00.000+08:00

It seemed like a great idea. No flying necessary, just hop onto a ferry, bop on the water about for an hour, and be transported to a place which is an eclectic mix of the old and new. And of course, watch the newest and hottest show in town, House of Dancing Water by Franco Dragone. Well, as it turned out, every other Hong Kong resident had the same idea.

The entire Macau immigration area was filled to the brim, literally. Officers couldn't get arrivals out of the hall as quickly as the Turbojets arrived. Of course, just queuing alone would be boring. You have to guard your spot and pre-empt queue jumpers. I told off about 4 different people within the space of the 45 minute wait. After you make it through, join yet another queue for one of the many hotel shuttles you booked into. And where do all these people head to after they gain access to the world's largest gambling destination by revenue?

Senado Square

You can find all of them at the Senado Square, now part of the Unesco Heritage site "historic centre of Macau".

Ruins of St. Paul

Or the ruins of St. Paul, also part of the same historic site. Macau is still very pretty in its own old European colony way, but could be that much prettier if these places had room to breathe. I've never been able to walk through comfortably and obviously on public holidays, the crowds multiply that much more.

The crowds are a little more bearable in the evenings, since most are trying their luck in the gazillion casinos in this tiny special administrative region of the Peoples' Republic of China. The only enclave in the entire Peoples' Republic where gambling is legalized.

The Wynn

The Venetian

When Dr. Stanley Ho's gambling monopoly ended in 2001 after 40 years, the opening up saw a lot of US players enter the market, including Wynn, Sands, MGM and a whole host of other traditional big Vegas players. With massive development, thy've changed the skyline of this once sleepy town.

Grand Lisboa

Even Dr. Ho has had to revamp and build the new Grand Lisboa to compete effectively in this segment.

Scene from House of Dancing Water

And in line with the government's push to make this more than just a gambling destination, ventures bring in sporting events and top shows like Cirque du Soleil. The latest at the City of Dreams, a venture between Lawrence Ho (Dr. Ho's son by his second wife) and the Aussie Melco Crown group, is the House of Dancing Water. Such was their promotional prowess that it seemed to have even overshadowed Zaia, Cirque's show at the Venetian. But honestly, it wasn't really worth the money in my opinion. Decent show of acrobatics but not worth the hassle and the hype.

But it is really the throwback in time that Macau brings, which appeals to me. The old Macau is still very much reminiscent of Singapore or Hong Kong in the 1950s.

Drying Bacalhau

Where you can see and smell the territory's quintessential dried and salted codfish drying on every other street corner in town.

Where old style shophouses still sell noodles made the traditional way, especially the famous shrimp roe infused noodles, which you can smell a block away.

And aside from the Chinese, you can of course still see Portuguese influences, through quaint houses on bouquet-lined cobble stone streets.

All this eclecticism is translated into the cuisines found here and in the next few posts, I'll hopefully bring a taste of Macau to you too. Stay tuned...

Hong Kong - Fook Lam Moon 福臨門

2011-04-23T00:07:00.000+08:00

I hadn't thought to come here at all. Their Wanchai branch (actually the original location) has a much higher profile. But on a weekday, who would have thought that a simple reservation for 4 people for a relatively early lunch spot at noon would NOT be available at the now elusive 3-Michelin starred Sun Tung Lok.

Literally, a stone's throw from Sun Tung Lok, Fook Lam Moon turned out to be a not-too-shabby second choice. This Michelin one-starred Chinese restaurant was more spruced up than I thought it would be. The street level entrance was understated but as the doors swing open, a smiley host took us up one level by the elevator, landing us at a swanky bar area. Swanky by Chinese restaurant standards, that is. It's not your hip, chill-out lounge type place. As we were led to our table, smiles and greetings descended upon us. Highly unusual for a Chinese restaurant but a big round of applause to whoever manages and trains their staff.

Despite the modern decor, what we got was actually good quality old-fashioned Dim-Sum. This long-time established restaurant showed its commitment to using good produce and letting them speak for themselves, with simple yet traditional preparation methods which enhance rather than overwhelm.

Deep Fried Spring Rolls 春卷

This was my favorite at lunch. A well fried spring roll that was a dry crisp on the outside, housing generous chunks of crunchy shrimp and tasty pork pieces on the inside. Nothing minced, just the whole of everything so you can savor the absolute freshness within. And as T told us the story of how the Fook Lam Moon name was derived, biting into the spring roll was that much more fulfilling. Fook (福) which means Happiness in Cantonese, and Lam Moon (臨門) which means "at your door", is apt for all the culinary goodness this family used to bring to Hong Kong families in the good old days, when house catering was the rage.

Shrimp Dumplings 蝦餃

I used to love Shrimp Dumplings until my palate got so sick of biting into mediocre to bad versions. As a kid, I used to dig out the insides for my brother and just eat the translucent skin. There is something about a well kneaded dough that when steamed is soft and slightly chewy but without that greasy aftertaste we get from so many average dim sum places today. This version from Fook Lam Moon ignited that spark I once had.

Crispy Roast Pork 燒腩仔

This was surprisingly not as good as it looked. It was competently roasted, and the skin a perfect crisp. But the cut of pork wasn't my favorite almost melt-in-your-mouth part. Slightly more meaty (read chewy) than I would have liked. Still decent even if not my cup of tea.

Steamed Shrimp Rice Rolls 鮮蝦腸粉

Another goodie reminiscent of the old days. Layers and layers of steamed rice flour folded against each other, and encasing fresh crunch shrimps. Served on a bed of quality soy.

Radish and Fish Patties 蘿蔔鯪魚餅

This arrived understated and what we all thought to be the usual Dace-based fish patty turned out to be a delicate mixture of julienned radish interspersed with minced Dace, resulting in a texture short of creamy protected by a lightly crispy exterior. Surprisingly enjoyable and kudos to E for spotting this on the menu.

Fu Yong Omelet on Vermicelli 芙蓉蛋煎米

All Hong Kongers love their eggs. Any dish with eggs is already almost a winner and all you need is execution to make it a home run. The omelet here was very good. Lightly golden brown and fluffy on the inside, almost cushion-like, made tasty from the shrimps and pork within. The vermicelli however suffered from a lack of taste. If this was made at home, you would say ok, we could all do with a lot less salt, but this was almost bland. We were happy enough because we had been pampered by the quality of the preceding dim sum, and savoring the omelet. On its own, however, the vermicelli would have been slammed. A bit of a shame considering it was well sealed to a crisp.

Steamed "Malay" Cake 馬拉糕

For dessert, we all voted for the traditional "Malay" cake. A Cantonese favorite at traditional restaurants, I have no idea why it's called "Malay". There are so many theories that can be made about this one, given the proximity in the region between old Canton and Malaysia. Anyone care to speculate?

While pricey for dim sum in a land where every other shop offers dim sum, Fook Lam Moon's offering is positioned for those who appreciate the old world goodness and perhaps this explained the average age of the customer (excluding our table and the group of young Koreans next to us) was about 65 and up. Don't write them off, 'cos they obviously know a thing or 2 about real food.

Shop 8, 1/F
53 Kimberley Road
Tsim Sha Tsui
+852-2366 0286